'17 300 - Flaky Computer and Oil Inject Problem

[Jebster]

I ran into some trouble with my dashboard computer and my oil injection, haven’t figured out if the two are related somehow . . .

My son and I took the bikes back home with us for the holidays, had a great ride day after Thanksgiving. At one point I noticed when the bike was running but not moving that the digital display was flaky, part of the display was flickering on/off AND the yellow engine light was flashing on/off. Once I got going the flickering went away.

When we returned home that Sunday, I noticed the oil injection tubing had no oil in it from the carb boot and back about 3-4 inches. My reasoning was during the 4-5 hour trip back home that the oil was “tamped” down into the boot as the bike rode out the trip in the back of the truck, but it certainly had me worried. This site was down so I posted a “Should I be Worried” post on another website with a Beta forum and the replies stretched from no problem to serious problem.

We did some riding this past Saturday, so Friday afternoon I got the bike out and started it up to observe the oil injection tubing (it was suggested that very quickly I should be able to see the oil start being pumped. I let the bike run for about 1-1.5 minutes, the oil never moved even the tiniest bit. The ridiculous display flickering was still present, and the yellow engine light was flashing on/off.

So for the ride I disconnected the oil pump and plugged the pump discharge and the inlet on the carb boot and decided to premix for the ride. I noticed throughout the ride that, again, when the bike was running but not moving the display was flickering. The yellow engine light was flashing (presumably because I had disconnected the oil pump).

First – have others had issues with the computer? A couple of times I have had to reset the time – for some reason it seems to just reset to a different time.

Second - I really like the convenience of the oil injection so I want to figure out what’s wrong.

My troubleshooting plan below, please comment with your experiences or suggestions:

-I read somewhere that some Beta owners have had issues with electrical connectors so I want to pull each plug apart, clean with contact cleaner, apply dielectric grease, reconnect – basically make sure all connectors/grounds are solid.

-Using the electrical diagram ensure all wiring associated with the oil pump shows continuity.

-With premix still in the tank, oil pump electrical connection made, and with oil tubing still removed but something to collect oil coming from the pump start the bike up and let it run for a little. I'm sure the pump is very slow running so I don't expect to see much oil but I should see at least a little.

I’ve done a bunch of assembly disassembly of the bike for jetting, Clake installation, curiosity so I may have caused the problem(s) I’m having. Could be two separate problems, a computer that has a malfunctioning display or bad connection (but why OK when moving?) and an oil injection system that has a faulty connection. I’ll also check the throttle position sensor mechanism above the slide to make sure that I didn’t reinstall in a wacky way (don’t know if that’s possible).

Again, feel free to comment with experiences or suggestions – thanks!

[Willis7864]

hi mate yes ive had the same problem with the oil injection,you may have read my post in the past.anyway the problem that was wrong with mine was the conector than going directly onto the oil pump had water in it..cleaned and greased up problem soloved.


however,last weekend the il problem as come back.oil light on the dash says the oil pump is working(by lighting up when I start the engine few seconds light goes out).but the pipe going into the carb is clear and the oil in the oil tank does not go down,(that's how I knew oil pump is not working,went to top oil tank up after a ride and tank is still full).checked the conector that was the problem in the past but all is ok with that.so I'm stuck now not knowing whats wrong


can anyone else help us

[wwguy]

The dash display (made by Trail Tech for Beta) doesn't control the oil injection system. According to the wiring diagram in the owner's manual the oil injection system has it's own dedicated controller. That controller also connects to a "diagnosis relay" that turns on the light in the dash display.

My best guess is that you have a problem with the oil injection controller that's causing the diagnosis relay to cycle on and off, thus making the light on the dash flicker on and off.

[ricoyam]

hi mate yes ive had the same problem with the oil injection,you may have read my post in the past.anyway the problem that was wrong with mine was the conector than going directly onto the oil pump had water in it..cleaned and greased up problem soloved.


however,last weekend the il problem as come back.oil light on the dash says the oil pump is working(by lighting up when I start the engine few seconds light goes out).but the pipe going into the carb is clear and the oil in the oil tank does not go down,(that's how I knew oil pump is not working,went to top oil tank up after a ride and tank is still full).checked the conector that was the problem in the past but all is ok with that.so I'm stuck now not knowing whats wrong


can anyone else help us

The water in the line is the biggest concern for me. Drain the oil tank and quit washing your bike with a pressure washer.
Water is heavier than oil or gas and will go to the bottom of the tank and to the feed line. Water in the line may also appear to be air. To get air in the line you'd have to run low or out of oil. Can Am had oil injection on their TNT models. They used the frame backbone as the oil tank and had some open cell foam in there to baffle the oil. Similar to the foam used in race car fuel cells.

[hooter]

Ouch! Makes me glad I have a 2015! (Premix only)

Hope you can get it sorted out.

[AlwynMike]

The flickering display at low revs is very indicative of a low alternator output or the regulator not kicking out enough.
The regulator will be trying to kick out 14 volts (or similar, I don't know the correct figure) but can't do it a low revs as there isn't enough alternator output until the engine is spinning.
A cause of this could well be too much load on the alternator - if for instance you have grip heaters or extra lights on, then the alternator will be working at it's max and not be supplying enough for the regulator to regulate, if you see what I mean. With my grip heaters on high, and connected to the battery, the computer display and backlight is on and off at low revs. I've since rewired the heaters to reduce the consumption and wired them to the lighting circuit to stop this.

Can't help with the oil pump issue - mine doesn't use much at all though

Mike

[Ross]

You said it's a 2017 I would take it to your dealer and let them fix it under warranty.

[McKay]

Not sure of the issue, sounds like a controller to me. But you might try Stabilant 22. We use it in the helicopter industry and its ten fold better than any grease we tried. You can get it at amazon. Put it everywhere, it will not short anything out. I'd also check your battery ground at battery and frame, make sure there is not any paint under frame where terminal bolts on, mine had it.

[brysonrs]

I don't have oil injection because I have a '17 race edition, but I have a new computer on the way because mine would flicker on and off. The computer is powered by it's own internal battery, the bike doesn't power the computer i just sends a signal to turn on. If you computer is flickering it is an internal fault with the computer most likely.

[Ross]

I have a 2017 Beta 300RR if you roll the bike a couple feet the magnet sensor on the front brake disk will activate the computer for a short time about 30 sec then off again as per the manual. If it just flickers I would take it to the dealer. I have had no problems with the oil injection.