Power Valve Springs

[celler]

I gave the other ignition setting a try. It definitely worked but what it did was remove the power in the lower mid. It did the opposite of what I wanted. Took away where the power valve backed to flush added. If you did not already buy the switch I would say save your money.

[T.Read]

So far, I've liked the PV turned all the way out to flush like Knox Enduro. Easier to manage especially going up big hills or having to tractor up one after getting out of shape halfway up. I still need to work on my jetting a little though to really tell. I'm getting a lot of rich sputtering just off idle. Tried to adjust the air screw yesterday on a 50 mile extreme trail ride in the Tennessee mountains north of Cookeville in Livingston, but forgot my small screwdriver. No one else had one quite small enough to fit in the recess of the carb. Was able to get it turned out 1/4 turn and it cleaned up a good deal, but needed more. I tried the PV at stock setting and it's just too quick of a transition for me. I'm on standard clutch, not auto, and Map 1 on the switch.

[Knox Enduro]

In this warmer weather turning the aircrew out is all I have had to do.
I have found in slick or very technical areas like what you and I are riding, I do like the PV turned out to flush, it softens the power down low and makes it smoother. In these conditions, don't get on the pipe too often, I am not Cody.
When I am riding in a more open area with good traction, I like it turned in because I can use the instant power and there is less hit higher in the range.
I know it is backwards from conventional thinking, but our trails are not easy.

[T.Read]

I'm going to try playing with it a little Saturday at Carter Mountain. See if I can adjust it a little better to my liking. Right now, I'm liking where the PV is set. Loop 1 I ought to be able to cruise through most of it in 3rd and carry the speed, same for most of 2. I'm hoping the air screw adjustment I did helped out the low end richness. I tried to see if it was better by just riding around in my tiny backyard, but it was hard to tell. Seemed better, though I wasn't fully warmed up.

[twowheels]

Seemed better, though I wasn't fully warmed up.

The stock jetting is really good, and the chart Beta publishes (found here on the board with a simple search or I can send it to you) nails the jetting at changing altitudes and temperatures. Your down-south humidity may require more air screw though.

Make sure the bike is warmed up - mine are froggy until they've had a chance to reach operating temp, but then spot on.

[T.Read]

Will do, I never bother making changes to a carb on a bike until I've ridden it at least 20-30min...unless it's way off. It is pretty humid down here and was even more so Saturday. Pretty sure the air screw was all it was. I thought I had it 1-1/2 turns out, but when I checked it running around the yard, it was less than that. Maybe 1-1/4.

[celler]

The stock needle is way richer off idle than the Suzuki NECJ or NEDW.

[thumperrider1]

Does the suzuki needle increase bottom to mid or just make things smoother? I've ran them in my gasgas300 but i'm trying to find more bottom to mid grunt and add some top end overrev.

[GMP]

From my experience with the 250 GGs, they sharpen response and clean up off idle because they are leaner, but for the same reason they cut a little low end torque under load. The GG would rev quick and pull fast and smooth through the mid, but in survival mode on a steep technical hill it didn't have the low end that the JD Blue I was comparing it too had. I liked it, just not for everything. I think on the 300 it would be less of a compromise because there is so much low end to start with.

[thumperrider1]

Sounds like I need to look into the head mod.