Anyone have feedback on the RKtek head?

[hooter]

Hi all, I’ve been reading glowing reviews of the RKtek head for the KTM 250 and 300 2-strokes. Has anyone tried it on the Beta? I have a 2015 300RR.

https://www.2strokeheads.com

[200boy]

I have a 2018 beta 250 RR, I put a r k head on it. 15 to 1 compression. With RK head it falls somewhere between the low in power of a 300. The bike runs great with it it made the mid-range more usable the bike in lug almost like a 300.. I had a r k head on a KTM 300 it was a great combination. I really like how the 250 runs out better than the 300. You won't go wrong with RK head

[Goatse]

I have one on my 250. It definitely added some snap to the bottom end, but it did increase the transition when it gets on the pipe. 2nd gear isn't as buttery as it used to be, but that's because it has more jam.

TBH, I would put one on a 250 every time over, but I wouldn't bother on the 300. The 250 is meant to be lively and snappy, and most 250 riders like a bit of a hit. But on the 300 it would take away from why a 300 works so well at what they do.

[nevermind]

I've had the RK Tek head on my 2016 300RR for a long time now. It is a traction monster in the mud and wet by riding 2 or more gears too high. I fear NO mud bog!!! It will plod along easy trails at ridiculously low rpms. It is an excellent if not THE BEST whiskey throttle prevention tool in my arsenal. Tight stuff, put the ECU in mud mode and ride a gear or two high. You have to try VERY hard to have it get away from you. With that said, if you decide to switch the ECU to advance mode, drop a gear and wack the throttle, remember to HANG on!!!

IMHO, this makes a 300RR very, very versatile and easier to ride slow. It takes nothing away from the 300 2T thrill and IMHO, raises that bar too.

[aj_mariner]

How much does the top end service interval change with the increased compression?

How much does the jetting change? (ie. pilot and needle one size more rich?)

I have thought a lot about trying one and changing to a 14 tooth.

[JoeMaico]

I run the RK Head on my 2016 300 RR. It provides phenomenal mid range pull, and it will lug down low allowing for extended low speed technical riding. However, I did lose the off idle snap. So, you need to be conscious of that when we you have a log hop, or other immediate obstacle, come up that you need to overcome. You have to plan ahead. When you order the head for your altitude and riding conditions, the owner will provide jetting/needle recommendations. His recommendations will get you close. I found that using the Beta recommended needle's for my altitude and temperature provided better response, than the recommended KTM needle. The main jet and pilot jet recommendations stay the same. But, your situation may be entirely different. So, all you need to buy in addition to the head - is a selection of needles, main jets, and pilot jets. You should have those in your toolbox anyways.

joe

[aj_mariner]

10-4. Joe, any noticeable decrease in top end life?

[JoeMaico]

None that I am aware of. But, I will admit - as long as it continues to pull like a tractor - I don't even worry about hours. I usually associate accelerated wear to poor oil and/or oil ratio choices, or extended WOT situations, more so than a head swap situation. I have the RE as well, so I control both aspects of the first set of variables, and my style of riding does not offer up many WOT situations. So, my 16 - with some number of hours (guess I should look one of these days) - runs great still.

joe

[Goatse]

See these here is exactly what I was referring to.

riding 2 or more gears too high.

Tight stuff, put the ECU in mud mode and ride a gear or two high.

This is what I have to do even on my 250. Sure it's nice in some scenarios but it's obvious that when it's mentioned needing to run a gear or 2 too high, that it is because the lower gears are now too snappy. After putting the head on my bike, 1st gear is full on silly and only used for pulling out tree stumps, and 2nd gear is pretty well what 1st used to be. Where this can become an issue, is if you do lots of steep rocky climbs. It wouldn't be so bad if the Beta had a better/tighter 2-3 gear spacing, but for good lugability the bike needs to be in 3rd gear. But if you lose enough momentum to 'need' 2nd gear, then you have to downshift to one of those spazz gears and the bike becomes a bit of a handful. Sure this is nice because with some clutch, nothing will knock you out of the power - but the problem is that the 2-3 gap is so wide, that if 3rd gear is just a bit too slow, then 2nd gear you'l now be on the pipe. As even mentioned above it makes the bike very strong in the mid range, so if you're in that odd case you actually need 1st or 2nd gear (spazz gears with the RK), then I imagine a 300 would be even more 'frantic' than my 250 is.

I've ridden a 2018 300 up the same climbs as my 250 with the RK Tek head. The 300 had a nicer power delivery for climbs. Solid torque right off the bottom and never that snap you have to be ready for with the 250 and the RK head. I'd hate to take away that buttery smooth torque the 300 already has and make it more like an angry MX bike. My 250 needs some of that anger at times, whereas I'd be surprised if the 300 ever would.

[aj_mariner]

Pulling out tree stumps and spazz gears...I love it