Beta Riders Club Discussion Forum

Anyone have a bunch of hours on a 200rr? A friend of mine has one. He's got over 50 hours on it and loves it. I've ridden it and another one. Great bikes, so nimble with enough power to hang with the 250/300's except in sand or maybe long hill climbs.

Anyway, to my question. My friend's 200rr started losing low end intermittently sometimes. At first we thought it was an exhaust leak so he removed, inspected and re-installed the pipe with sealant at all the joints. That didn't fix it.

Messed with the carb a little and that didn't fix it.

That's when I rode it. I put about 2 hours on it and it felt to me like the power valve sticks. I rode it up a hillclimb pinned wide open. Once at the top the terrain leveled off and turns into a whooped out turn track section. That's when I noticed the bike had no bottom end. We decided it must be the power valve sticking when it reaches full open.

He called our local dealer who suggested maybe it was out of adjustment. So he adjusted the power valve at the pivot arm behind the side cover. This seemed to work for awhile but it also changed the power aspect of the bike. Not in a good way either, it seems there's no adjusting it to get the power delivery it had when new without the valve sticking when the throttle is pinned.

To be clear:
1. we adjust the power valve so it doesn't stick and it doesn't have as much power on top
2. we adjust it so it has power on top but then it sticks
3. there is no sweet spot, it either sticks or doesn't have top end power

We have not removed and inspected the power valve yet but that is next on the list.

Does anyone have any other advice?

Is there an after market pipe that changes the power aspect to compensate adjusting the power valve so it wont open all the way?

Never have had an issue with powervalve sticking on mine. Clutch slipping?

BassMan wrote:Never have had an issue with powervalve sticking on mine. Clutch slipping?

SMH...no, it's not the clutch slipping.

I got money on that the power valve is carboned up/ gummed up.

I just rebuilt my 250rr and the power valve looked like it was one piece not two, I am a wuss and don't ride on the pipe enough to clear it out but I have never had to change the plug and run Klotz 302 at 50:1
I am not trying to make this in to a oil thread or how to ride....

take the exhaust off the motor.
take the power valve actuator arm cover off. (water pump side)
grab the power valve actuator arm (rod that comes from the bottom end)
while looking in the motor through the exhaust move the power valve actuator arm all the way through its movement, up and down a few times.
make sure the valve opens all the way to the stopper bolt and all the way closed to the stopper bolt.
you should have to make it open but it should spring back closed to the stopper bolt by it self.

to clean it all out you will have to take,
the head off
the cylinder off,
then you can dissemble the power valve to clean it up.
if you are carefull and lucky the only thing you would have to replace is the 6 copper washers on the 6 bolts that hold the head on.

Thanks little_wing. I agree that it's probably gummed up. I'll report back on what we find

My 2019 200RR has the same exact issue. I took the PV apart, and the power valve flap has been rubbing on the cylinder and left a worn shiny spot on the flap.

Were you able to fix yours?

Thanks!

I have the same problem I currently have my power valve apart and it seems to be sticking, how did you all rectify your issues?

I wonder if this is the problem with my bike. The power feels jerky until I get up on the pipe. I use it most regularly for greenlaning here in the UK. No chance to open it up properly as the trails are often very short. I will get on the motocross track soon and have a better idea of how the machine is performing.

But it's certainly not "smooth" like it is described as on many YouTube reviews.