Clutch and oil injection

Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.

Clutch and oil injection

Postby rotortiller » Sun Oct 16, 2022 4:12 am

I finally had enough with my 2017 300RR and finally did something about these two systems. I had absolutely minimal clutch free play and the thing would still drag some and often enough, not disengage at times. It was nasty sometimes on grass and mud or trailer loading, especially if you applied the front brake to overcome the drag and stop the bike. I pulled the clutch apart and sanded all the metal plates clean and installed with the stamped curved side out to reduce hang up from sharp edges during disengagement. It actually works, at least for now. The bike stopped smoking for some reason last ride so I unplugged the oil pump, added premix and finished the days ride. The engine caution light naturally was on as expected so once home I removed the oil tank and lines then capped the intake manifold oil nipple. I did not feel like cutting or removing wires from the instrument panel to put the caution light off so I made a oil line loop from the oil pump inlet and outlet nipple and filled with oil, then plugged the oil pump back in and mounted it to the side of the frame next to the famous diodes and capacitor. Warning light is out, bike placarded for premix, clutch does not drag and I now have full confidence in engine lubrication. At least now I can ride safely and reliably with my KTM and Yamaha friends. Next is to increase the neutral detent force, it's very easy to shift stopped now but neutral detent force is minimal so it is a footsie game between 1st and 2nd. Frickin Italian scooters lol. You do not need to spend coin on the oil system delete kit or cut into your wiring harness, or modify the instrument connector. Just thought I'd share to some other other frugal and frustrated Beta owners.
rotortiller
 
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