Battery issue

[tindale]

Bike is a 2016 350rr , 250 hours on it , bought it new. Recently it has been killing batteries, not really draining them but killing them. 4 batteries since January, first one I put down to a cheap battery and dealer warrantied it with a replacement, it lasted a couple of months then also died on the trail. Both of these batteries just quit, no slowing of cranking no clicking of solenoid just dead. Checked both back at shop they both read 12.4 volts but must of had 0 cranking amps. Third battery lasted about three weeks then died on the trail , checked back at shop it read 0.0 volts ! After that I changed the voltage regulator and installed another new battery, old VR checked out fine but I thought maybe between the vibration and the heat while running it was screwing up and overcharging batteries. Old VR would read 13.8 volts at idle and would not change with increased RPM, new VR reads 13.3 volts at idle and also does not change with increased revs. Rectifier tested fine on old VR .So now new battery and new VR second ride I am dead on the trail again. Bike will not kick with dead battery but will bump start. Bike will kick start with good battery. Fourth battery reads 9.8 volts now and I am seeing if it will take a charge or if it is toast as well. No fuses are blowing.

Looks like it is not taking a charge , I am afraid it might be toast as well.

Any help here would be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Mark

[aj_mariner]

Do you have a clamp-on ammeter to see if there are any amps through the positive lead when not running? Sounds like either some switch is made or a positive has rubbed through its insulation and grounding to frame.

[tindale]

I will check that. My ktm had the positive cable rub on the frame but it would blow fuses. Should the ammeter read zero ?

[aj_mariner]

Yes, there should be no amp draw with the bike turned off...as long as your meter or “dash” isn’t wired to always be on. If your not popping fuses then the possible ground should be on the main positive cable from the battery to the fuse/relay block.

[tindale]

Thanks, travelling next four days, will check early next week and let you know.

[dirtbill]

I'm pretty sure that is a twisting the throttle problem, lots of old guys who spend time in Az seem to have it.

[tindale]

Ha ha Bill, can't wait to twist it in the forest for a change , if and when I get this electrical issue sorted. Hope your travels are going well, see you in the trees.

[Lotus54]

Just as note:
An AGM battery should have more than 12.4 V when fully charged.
Best way to check capacity is with a load tester.

This is a very basic chart, but pretty close for an AGM (note not all battery chemistries are the same at all).
Mark

[tindale]

Okay so I removed the battery from the bike . Then took my multimeter set on the ohm section , dial at the 200k position , probes on the respective bike battery cables , I am getting a reading of 13.9 and when I push the sarter button this reading goes to zero. Is this normal or am I on to something here ?

[aj_mariner]

you are reading resistance, not amps, when set on ohms (omega). But a resistance of 13.9ohms across what? The starter relay?

You want to set the meter to A with the straight line under the A (DC amps) and connect in series to what you are measuring. DO NOT START THE BIKE if you connect the meter in series from the battery + to the main positive cable as you can fry your meter. This is why a clamp on meter is safer.

Edit: reread and it sounds like you are reading the resistance of the battery??