Beta 430RR Running Issues

[waynenewton]

NEED HELP I am having a problem with one of my 2016 430's. Last weekend went to Stradbroke Vic. An hour into the ride stopped for 5 minutes when I took off the bike would run for 5 seconds then cut out. It did this several times until I flattened the battery. I removed as much as I could in the middle of no where checked all my connections and all seemed ok. After an hour looking for possible issues found nothing then it all of a sudden started with the kick starter. Rode for another hour and a half no issues. That night the bike was cleaned, stripped down and every connection plug etc was pulled apart blown out and sprayed with WD40. Took the bike out the following day worked perfect for a short ride of about 2 hours. Yesterday went back to Stradbroke, 20 minutes into the ride it started back firing and loosing power under acceleration stopping going etc etc. If you pushed the starter quickly normally the pump runs for a several seconds then turns off, this wasnt happening. At one stage it was cranking for 10 to 15 seconds and would not fire and had the F1 orange light on the speedo. When it did start I could I could ride 50 metres then it would cut out. Other times it would run ok then I would go to accelerate hard and it would start with the backfiring popping stalling again. This went on for half an hour or so then it seemed to rectify itself and I rode for another 3 hours without issue. It has been suggested that it may have a air lock in the tank...it doesnt. It was recently fitted with an IMS long range tank which required swapping the internals from the old tank into the new. Thought the problem may have been with this but have triple checked everything and all good. Went to the dealer and it had many fault codes many of which they didnt know. Cleared the faults took it for a ride lasted 50 metres. There was some bubbles originating from the area of the fuel pump when looking in the top of the tank. The dealer said there must be a leak in the fuel pump system reducing pressure to tthe injector. Again I checked all the connections internally in the fuel tank and all seem 100% and I also filled the tank so all connections were under fuel and it was still bubbling so where was the air getting in??? THEN I fired up my other new 430RR and it also has bubbles coming from the fuel pump. Didnt seem to be as many but none the less was bubbling. This second bike runs perfectly. If the pump, pipes etc are all submerged how does it make bubbles anyway??? What suggestions do you have as I am racing it next weekend and I cant have this happen. Plus with the locations we ride it would be a 2 or 3 hour walk out and getting a car in to where the bike is would not be possible. I desperately need a solution before this weekend.

[Lonesome Dave]

To me it sounds like the fuel pump. I've also know that the IMS tanks are often NOT cleaned very well before shipping. Manufacturing debris can be left behind to attach themselves to the in tank filter/pump... The bubbles I have no idea.

[bikesparky]

If you are 100% sure the fuel pump is fine and has no leaks or anything I would suggest checking the following.
1- TPS.
2-All connections to ECU including TPS and pick up. (again)

The ECU drives the fuel pump at cranking and after it "sees" a signal from the crank sensor. If there is no signal from the pickup it turns off the pump for safety reasons.
Spraying the connectors with WD40 is not a good solution. It works on old fashion systems but not with modern ECUs.
If WD40 or moisture gets in the TPS or in the ECU connector this will cause issues.
Clean with contact cleaner!

A tip to eliminate the fuel pump from the equation is to drive it direct with 12 V so the ECU has no say in it.
WARNING, this needs to be done with care as the pump will keep running regardless, ONLY for testing purposes!!!
If the fault stays it's the fuel pump, if it goes away it's in the electrical circuit and can be pick up, ecu, connections etc...

Hope this helps.

[Johnny Depp]

Make sure you have removed the gas cap check valve. Boiling fuel could cause bubbles and vapor lock stalling.

[Be350ka]

Could be the above but this issue was apparent before FI. I had to replace several stators and cdis at the direction of Beta to help with this problem. You probably also notice that the bike runs hot and almost like someone is holding the rear brake (loss of power) followed by big bangs out the back end. After the third CDI/stator swap it was fine. Beta was very willing to help with this issue.

[Sweepea]

Could be the above but this issue was apparent before FI. I had to replace several stators and cdis at the direction of Beta to help with this problem. You probably also notice that the bike runs hot and almost like someone is holding the rear brake (loss of power) followed by big bangs out the back end. After the third CDI/stator swap it was fine. Beta was very willing to help with this issue.

Anyone trouble shoot a stator/rectifier issue yet. I have a 2016 350 RR that won't charge the battery. What are the output values for the stator? Do you check like a normal 3-phase a/c system (check all three poles). How about the rectifier/regulator values? Other than a dead battery after riding for awhile, the bike will just cutout on me. Not stall, but at idle with the clutch pulled in, just stop running like someone shut off a switch. It re-starts, but will cutout again and again. Really annoying on the trail. I'm hoping it's tied to the battery draining, but doesn't really make sense since it should run without the battery after it's started.

Thanks, in advance, for the help.

[aj_mariner]

Your bike cutting out might be one of the mag pickups’ connections by the thermostat. They pretty much come crushed from the factory. My bike did the same thing until these were redone. As far as testing your battery charging circuit...it would probably be easiest to just connect your multimeter leads to the battery, record voltage, then start the bike and see what the voltage increases to. I think most are seeing between 13.8-14 VDC. You running Li-Ion?

[Sweepea]

Your bike cutting out might be one of the mag pickups’ connections by the thermostat. They pretty much come crushed from the factory. My bike did the same thing until these were redone. As far as testing your battery charging circuit...it would probably be easiest to just connect your multimeter leads to the battery, record voltage, then start the bike and see what the voltage increases to. I think most are seeing between 13.8-14 VDC. You running Li-Ion?

Yes, checked the voltage running, that's how I know it's not charging. It is a lithium-ion battery. I'm trying to troubleshoot the stator and rectifier to see which is defective. There should be a specified a/c voltage for the stator output, and resistance specs for the rectifier/regulator. The mag pickup would make sense for the cutouts, but not the charging. I did open and clean the mag pickup connection to the coil. I would like to check the coil too, but again, where are the specs for any of this???