dreaded oil question..

[Cruiser]

I really didn't want a "who's oil is better" discussion. I am having issue finding the factory recommended oil. so wondering what everyone is using. This is specifically why I don't like buying a bike without a good dealer network nearby. I'd rather go down and discuss with the tech's at the dealer what is a good oil they use/sell/recommend. I only have a couple dealers nearby that sell yamaha and thats about it. Neither are into off road bikes. SxS? sure they could talk that crap up all day. I drive 2 -2.5 hr round trip to either the ktm dealer or the GasGas dealer. looking for a good equivalent so I can do my break in right now before a big ride.
Also would like to find a decent oil that I can buy in bulk to keep on hand. This is the first bike I have had with a split eng/trans oil. I had no problem finding the $19 a qt motul for the engine. The trans expert 10/40 no clue. I'll be hitting 2-4 shops tomorrow and hoping I come up with something or its getting the same in both. Which I'm sure is fine, just wanted the first to be the recommended.
Coming from a 2004 rfs 525 sx motor I've been running lucas 20w50 and great results in that. But I've tried 7-8 oils and that seams the best all around with the z-start rekluse also. But I figure this smaller motor would not like that stuff.

Oh,, I drive a service truck over a large area, usually 250-400 miles a day. Been stopping at several ktm, husky etc shops looking for the trans expert 10/40.
I will be passing 3 I think tomorrow, one picking up my tires if in.

[ricoyam]

I try to recommend riders support their local dealers but let's face it, sometimes no one is local and sometimes the local guy doesn't carry what you want.
Mail order works. Bike Bandit, Motorcycle Superstore and Rocky Mountain all carry Motul products in the US.

Doesn't hurt at all to run what the manufacturer recommends. Sure could save a headache if you should encounter a rare engine or gearbox problem.

I order in cases usually. I like having oils and fluids, brake pads, tubes and other consumable products on the shelf. Saves me from those Saturday afternoon panics but won't eliminate them.

[twowheels]

I had no problem finding the $19 a qt motul for the engine. The trans expert 10/40 no clue. I

Our local distributor has the 10/40 engine oil but not the trans expert. I typically use Amsoil and Motul interchangeably, so the gearbox on the 350 got Amsoil on the last change.

[GMP]

All that Motul sticker on the bike and recommendation in the manual mean is that they are the current sponsor. In '13 it was Panolin, now Motul, in the future someone else. Just run a good syn diesel oil and change it out often. Or Mobil 1. I ran M1 in my Duc Hyper for 24K miles without issues, and valves never moved. For the trans whatever works good with the Rekluse. I like Amsoil products but their trans oil feels no different than plain old Rotella. Sorry but I'm not in the $15/L MC specific oil camp.

[Johnno]

This is slightly left of topic but not my oil is better.

I use a particular type and brand oil which is available in bulk. If you can find it... 20 litre drums ( if you were a farmer or a contractor you'd buy a 200 maybe ) are available but I spotted a deal just at a suburban service station that had 2 five litre containers in a deal CHEAPER per litre than buying a 20...

So for sure, explore all your potential opportunities.

The 2 fives suits me as it's easier to store and I don't need to buy a plunger pump to get the oil out of the 20 litre drum.

[ricoyam]

All that Motul sticker on the bike and recommendation in the manual mean is that they are the current sponsor. In '13 it was Panolin, now Motul, in the future someone else. Just run a good syn diesel oil and change it out often. Or Mobil 1. I ran M1 in my Duc Hyper for 24K miles without issues, and valves never moved. For the trans whatever works good with the Rekluse. I like Amsoil products but their trans oil feels no different than plain old Rotella. Sorry but I'm not in the $15/L MC specific oil camp.

And that's the main key Glenn, change it often.
BTW, in my 35 years of Ducati ownership, I've never had to shim a valve in any of them. I've had several in that time too, both bevels and rubber Duckies.

I've said it before but motorcycle specific oils carry an additive package to contend with clutch friction material and the long periods of rest in between the short periods of hard running. Those are the two big factors for changing oil more often for non-specific grades.

[Cruiser]

My TM dealer.. got some of the trans oil in as they were out of all the motul stuff. I did the oil change tonight. Strange oil change. Easy.. expecting worse but it doesn't use much oil either. 3/4 a bottle for crank case and less for the trans. I don't think I got it all out of the trans maybe. but it was clean. I'm going to find a oil that make the bike and the wallet happy. but for the first time I wanted to try to stick with the recommended stuff, or at least type. But really... 12 hrs at 50-75% power.. I don't think I lasted 15 minutes.

[GMP]

The split oil bikes are easy as you don't have to compromise between the motor and clutch. The trans can run anything reasonable, whatever worked for you in the past. The motor any good syn oil. In Craig's Xlite Husky 310 we ran Mobil 1 0 - 30w with excellent results and total reliability, and that motor was notorious for issues. Why? Because flow was key in that motor. This MC oil thing is ridiculous @ $20/L. For years there have been UOAs reported showing this. If Shell Oil became a sponser you would see a Rotella sticker on the motor. Its all about the $$.

[ricoyam]

New diesel oil ratings.

http://www.api.org/products-and-service ... categories

Reading this reminded me that diesel engines also turn low RPM. Usually cruising at around 2300-2500 RPM. Something to consider in your motorcycle engine. Filtering systems on motorcycles are also not as good as truck/automotive systems which is one thing high detergent oils rely on in their applications. It's not the stuff you see on the screens, it's the stuff that get past the filters and screens.

Not to argue with Glenn but to offer a counterpoint which I feel is very valid is that there is a big reason there are different ratings for oils. Not just API but also JASO. These ratings affect the additive packages and the tested performance of any specific oil. For years I have run Delo 400 in some of my bikes and I use it in my truck. I've never had any problems but that doesn't mean it's the best thing you can do for your bike (or truck or car).
I expect part of the new ratings mean the elimination of any zinc which has been a catalytic converter contaminant.
Run the best, most appropriate oil you can afford for any given application is the rule we should follow. If that means you need to budget, so be it. I get better pricing on motorcycle "stuff" than most, through work but it's still a relative expense. When you're only using a couple of litres at a time it's not that much money either. When working for a concrete contractor I used to service International dump trucks that took 10 gallons.

[GMP]

Used Oil Analysis for samples related to your application is all you need to know. On the trans side I would think you would want to eliminate clutch debri as a priority (I do anyway). $20/L to get dumped every race or couple rides is just crazy. If I were forced to pay that for oil I'd find another sport. My body will wear out long before my trans and clutch from using Rotella, M1, Delvac, etc.