4T valve adjustment questions 2018 500 RR-S

[Abercrombie]

Ok, so its time to perform my first valve check on the new Beta but the service manual leaves me with some questions that my prior experience checking valves on bikes with screw and nut adjusters hasn't prepared me for. Sorry in advance for all my noob questions.
my 1st issue is finding top dead center. The manual tells me to

To block the crankshaft in the Top Dead Centre,
insert the special conical-end screw 38, without
applying washer 37, or the special engine locking
tool, code 006140110000, in its seat on the right
crankcase. Once the crankshaft is positioned at the
Top Dead Centre, tighten all the way.

So how are you supposed to turn the engine to get it to top dead center since this bike doesn't have a crank shaft end bolt cover like I'm used to? Place the bike in gear and turn the rear wheel? Does the conical-end screw #38 fall into a detente at when the engine is at TDC or is it just providing friction to prevent engine movement once you have it visually at TDC indicated by the cam shaft sprokets? When I pull this crank shaft blocking screw #38, oil runs out of the crank case. I'm assuming that's normal and you either must drain the crank case or just remove and reinstall the screw quickly to prevent the oil from draining?

So lets say I have to change out shims. I assume its obvious that I will have to remove the cam chain tension-er prior to lifting the cams. I will support the cam chain to prevent it from falling into the engine case but is there any chance of the cam chain coming off the bottom cam chain sprocket or is that supported in position mechanically. Do I have to maintain tension on the cam chain to prevent the chain from coming off the bottom sprocket.

Thanks for your answers. My nearest Beta is 250 miles away so I will be doing a lot of my own maintenance but I've never owned liquid cooled four stroke before. I'm afraid I have a lot to learn and no Beta resources in North Dakota. Is there any good valve clearance check / adjustment write ups or videos that anyone can suggest to shorten my learning curve or prevent mistakes? I've googled the hell out of it and found very little if any information other than the Beta service manual.

[Deck1]

I didn't go by the book. I turned engine with rear wheel, top gear until marks were correct on cam gears. Found one intake valve hair tight. Ordered shim kit on Amazon. When kit arrived, put a zip tie around the cam chain and each sprockets, removed upper cam frame, and used magnet to fish out shim. Measured shim with digital caliper, figured out what shim I needed from kit, installed, tightened cam frame down, remeasured all, reassembled.

[Abercrombie]

I didn't go by the book. I turned engine with rear wheel, top gear until marks were correct on cam gears. Found one intake valve hair tight. Ordered shim kit on Amazon. When kit arrived, put a zip tie around the cam chain and each sprockets, removed upper cam frame, and used magnet to fish out shim. Measured shim with digital caliper, figured out what shim I needed from kit, installed, tightened cam frame down, remeasured all, reassembled.

Well "the book" or service manual doesn't go into a lot of detail and assumes you have prior knowledge or know what you're doing. [I don't with shim and bucket adjusters.]
So you tipped the cams, and left the cam chain tensioner in place with the chain still under tension or did you release or remove the tensioner?

[twowheels]

I didn't go by the book. I turned engine with rear wheel, top gear until marks were correct on cam gears. Found one intake valve hair tight. Ordered shim kit on Amazon. When kit arrived, put a zip tie around the cam chain and each sprockets, removed upper cam frame, and used magnet to fish out shim. Measured shim with digital caliper, figured out what shim I needed from kit, installed, tightened cam frame down, remeasured all, reassembled.

Well "the book" or service manual doesn't go into a lot of detail and assumes you have prior knowledge or know what you're doing. [I don't with shim and bucket adjusters.]
So you tipped the cams, and left the cam chain tensioner in place with the chain still under tension or did you release or remove the tensioner?

Remove the tensioner. The two hardest parts of the job are getting the sparkplug out and sneaking the cam cover off the head.

[Deck1]

I didn't go by the book. I turned engine with rear wheel, top gear until marks were correct on cam gears. Found one intake valve hair tight. Ordered shim kit on Amazon. When kit arrived, put a zip tie around the cam chain and each sprockets, removed upper cam frame, and used magnet to fish out shim. Measured shim with digital caliper, figured out what shim I needed from kit, installed, tightened cam frame down, remeasured all, reassembled.

Well "the book" or service manual doesn't go into a lot of detail and assumes you have prior knowledge or know what you're doing. [I don't with shim and bucket adjusters.]
So you tipped the cams, and left the cam chain tensioner in place with the chain still under tension or did you release or remove the tensioner?

Sorry, yes, you need to remove chain tensioner & reset it before installing. It has been a couple of years since last done. It was all pretty easy. My issues were reattaching head stay nut, and patience with valve cover removal/install. Start with a clean bike

[Lonesome Dave]

Abercrombie;
Petros and I just did mine on the 390. Twowheels is right.
Give me a call.

[NJZoltan]

Ok, so its time to perform my first valve check on the new Beta but the service manual leaves me with some questions that my prior experience checking valves on bikes with screw and nut adjusters hasn't prepared me for. Sorry in advance for all my noob questions.
my 1st issue is finding top dead center. The manual tells me to

To block the crankshaft in the Top Dead Centre,
insert the special conical-end screw 38, without
applying washer 37, or the special engine locking
tool, code 006140110000, in its seat on the right
crankcase. Once the crankshaft is positioned at the
Top Dead Centre, tighten all the way.

So how are you supposed to turn the engine to get it to top dead center since this bike doesn't have a crank shaft end bolt cover like I'm used to? Place the bike in gear and turn the rear wheel? Does the conical-end screw #38 fall into a detente at when the engine is at TDC or is it just providing friction to prevent engine movement once you have it visually at TDC indicated by the cam shaft sprokets? When I pull this crank shaft blocking screw #38, oil runs out of the crank case. I'm assuming that's normal and you either must drain the crank case or just remove and reinstall the screw quickly to prevent the oil from draining?

So lets say I have to change out shims. I assume its obvious that I will have to remove the cam chain tension-er prior to lifting the cams. I will support the cam chain to prevent it from falling into the engine case but is there any chance of the cam chain coming off the bottom cam chain sprocket or is that supported in position mechanically. Do I have to maintain tension on the cam chain to prevent the chain from coming off the bottom sprocket.

Thanks for your answers. My nearest Beta is 250 miles away so I will be doing a lot of my own maintenance but I've never owned liquid cooled four stroke before. I'm afraid I have a lot to learn and no Beta resources in North Dakota. Is there any good valve clearance check / adjustment write ups or videos that anyone can suggest to shorten my learning curve or prevent mistakes? I've googled the hell out of it and found very little if any information other than the Beta service manual.

1. Take the plug out. That will relieve pressure so you can turn the engine.
2. Take the valve cover off. You can eyeball TDC by the marks on the cam. That should help you lock in the crank screw. I had to use a flash light to see the detent on the crank..not easy.
3. remove the tensioner to relieve pressure on the chain.
4. I didn't take the cams out, I did one at a time.

Also NOTE, wash the bike well in that area, by the harness...last thing you want is dirt to fall into the engine. Good luck

[Marty Moose]

I leave the plug in.

[Abercrombie]

I leave the plug in.

You can get the valve cover off without taking the plug out? I need to go tackle this job so I know what the hell I'm talking about.

[Abercrombie]

Thanks for all the tips and info. I tackled the first valve check on the 500 RR-S last night and everything was right in the middle of specifications and required no adjustment. I'm ashamed to say it but I was unable or unwilling to find the time and courage to do this check before the 48 hour mark. I'm so relieved that the valves were in the middle of the clearance range and my neglect didn't have any adverse effect on the bike.