Battery issue

[tindale]

That ohm reading was taken with the battery out of the bike and the reading was taken with the multimeter probes on the the disconected battery cables on the bike. I do not really know what that reading was measuring or what it should read, also seems strange to me that when I push the starter button the reading drops to zero. I am not well versed in electrical issues so any info as to what kind of readings I should be getting will be much appreciated.

Before purchasing the clamp on ammeter I thought I would inspect visually and also see what I could find with multi meter.

I also had the bike idling last night with a multi meter on the battery while I pushed , pulled and wiggled all the wires. Reading remained steady at 13.2 volts with no spikes.

Thanks.

[aj_mariner]

Gotcha, 10-4. Sounds like a contact/switch isn’t fully opening. There should be a very high resistance from positive to frame. 0 ohms indicates a short or closed contact/switch, “OL” overload or very high resistance is what you want to see when you measured with the battery disconnected.

Now you need to find the switch or relay contact that is giving the same ohm reading you measured before. Try measuring how you measured before to see if you have the same resistance. Then pull the fuse to the start switch in the starter relay to see if the resistance jumps to “OL” overload or some very very high resistance. If it doesn’t change then your starter relay contacts aren’t fully opening.

B8240761-54C9-4C9A-8840-EFD11CEE1416.jpeg (28.21 KiB) Viewed 6490 times

[tindale]

Thanks, I will check into that tonight

[aj_mariner]

Apologies for my confusion last night. You said it plain as day. Not sure what the hell I was thinking

[tindale]

Did some checking tonight, disconnected positive battery cable resitance to frame was 50 ohms with cold engine pulled starter relay fuse and resistance went to o/l. Then started engine and tried to get a voltage spike again but battery was holding a steady 13.3 to 13.4 volts. Then disconected battery cable again and checked resitance to frame again and with a hot engine the ohm reading was 8 ohms. Does that make sense ?

I guess I now have to unplug rest of switches one at a time to see which one does not affect the resistance reading ?

[aj_mariner]

I’m not sure if you can disassemble the start switch, but that’s next to check

[tindale]

Checking into stator tonight and resistance between three yellow output wires all read 0.00 ohms. From what I have read this should be higher, say .04 to .09 but I can not find the actual beta spec. Does anyone have this spec? Also ac voltage output, mine was reading about 35 volts at idle.

[dirtbill]

mark:

here is some more useful info:

https://itstillruns.com/check-motorcycl ... 26147.html

http://www.genebitsystems.com/david/Mot ... oblems.htm

They are not specific to your bike but have some very good general information and I think in general the voltage and resistance ranges are in the ballpark.

PS went riding in the woods with Pete and the gang today.

[tindale]

Thanks Bill, forest still closed here , but should open next week if we get a rew days of sunshine to dry it up. Starting to look like maybe my stator as it is not supposed to read 0.0 ohms resistance. I will check my sons 450 for readings and also get another meter to verify and also check cold and hot motor readings if everything still reads zero I will pull the stator. Say hi to Pete.

[aj_mariner]

A very low resistance across the windings are generally a good thing, and subject to the accuracy of your meter. Resistance from winding to ground/casing/frame/negative should be very very high and shows if your winding insulation has broken down or been damaged. For reference, my Fluke reads 0.3ohms across large and small motor windings, as well as when the test leads touch.
Also, in your original post you said that you have 13.4VDC out of the new voltage regulator. This should be an indication of a good alternator.