Which oil stops clutch drag?

[Deck1]

I also urge people to try a Synthetic auto trans oil. I use Transynd, Castrol oil made in conjunction with Allison especially for Allison transmissions. These transmission have heavy clutch and gear loads to deal with. I try to change the oil in 20-30 hour range. Neutral is marginally easier to find, but clutch works really great, trans seems to like it. I can buy it at good price at my work, so it is easier to source, too.

[Rob578]

The judder spring keeps a constant light pressure on the plates so the clutch never fully disengages, it always drags. Some days worse than than others. Some people say the judder springs widen and smooth the engagement point but I can't tell any difference in mine after I removed it.

[reage]

spring for this hi priced snake oil and its like new again.

[Hyde]

I've ended up with Klotz KL-506, now that I think about it, it looks a lot like trans fluid but about the same cost as that trans fluid.

FYI, two strokes do not have a judder spring.

[Rob578]

I've ended up with Klotz KL-506, now that I think about it, it looks a lot like trans fluid but about the same cost as that trans fluid.

FYI, two strokes do not have a judder spring.

That's not true, check out part #35,

https://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.co ... G%20CLUTCH

Take out the 2 #19 and #35, add a full size plate, replace the friction plates with YZ450 plates and replace the springs with Pro Circuit, change the master cylinder to the one from the 350 and you will have a stellar clutch with a long engagement point, no drag and relatively light pull at the lever.

This is the setup I'm currently running in a 2015 300RR

[throttle]

we used to file the edges of the clutch basket down on old KTM's. It was that or buy a hinson. The plates' teeth get stuck in grooves from hard shifting and won't separate enough to let the bike coast in gear no matter how hard you pull on the clutch. Not sure that would work on the Beta's.

[Hyde]

I stand corrected, 18 and up do not have judder springs.

On my 14' 450rr pulling the springs out helped allot, I'm on my 5th 250rr and other than the clutch slave going south at thirty hours like clock work, they have been bullet proof.

I left the stock slave on my 2020, and it made it 28.8 hours, most everyone's clutch woes are the slave, it gets a notch in the bore and starts hanging for a few rides before it totally fails, I put the same Rekluse slave on my 14', 15' , 16' and sold it with my 18', there tough.

[Rob578]

I stand corrected, 18 and up do not have judder springs.

On my 14' 450rr pulling the springs out helped allot, I'm on my 5th 250rr and other than the clutch slave going south at thirty hours like clock work, they have been bullet proof.

I left the stock slave on my 2020, and it made it 28.8 hours, most everyone's clutch woes are the slave, it gets a notch in the bore and starts hanging for a few rides before it totally fails, I put the same Rekluse slave on my 14', 15' , 16' and sold it with my 18', there tough.

At $179.00 they should be bulletproof.........I haven't had any issues with the 350 slave.

[noppenrijder]

we used to file the edges of the clutch basket down on old KTM's. It was that or buy a hinson. The plates' teeth get stuck in grooves from hard shifting and won't separate enough to let the bike coast in gear no matter how hard you pull on the clutch. Not sure that would work on the Beta's.

i have done all the friction plates with a file, 1. made de edges of the tooth a little bit less sharp, and 2. took all the glue away between the friction parts worth al little file, on both sides of all the friction plates; a lot of work, but a big advantage !