N2ZK, N84K needles

[Goatse]

It's nice to see someone mess with the Beta needles, but I gave the Suzuki needles a try and they're considerably better than the taper that came on the bike. You see a lot of people rave about them, but I thought they were embellishing a bit. But I had my first ride on the NEDW needle last weekend and it surprised me how much better it was.

The reason I tried them was for the reasons shown in this thread. The deciphering and just general knowledge of the Beta tapers is questionable (nobody could even tell me if there was a half clip option). So I went with the Suzuki needles for availability, knowledge, and convenience. But the plus side, is its a much nicer power delivery.

I'm now running the NEDW on my 250RR and I have the NECJ as a stocking stuffer for my wife's Xtrainer. So after Xmas I'll be seeing how the NECJ does on her 300.

[aj_mariner]

What confuses me is that when I remember trying the N2ZW needle after the N2ZJ, it was fatter. The spooge was out of control. So even though the needle diameter is larger, the needle overall is more rich? What?! Even the Suzuki needles are this way. NECJ is more rich than the NECK, but both are more lean than the NECW.

[Goatse]

What confuses me is that when I remember trying the N2ZW needle after the N2ZJ, it was fatter. The spooge was out of control. So even though the needle diameter is larger, the needle overall is more rich? What?! Even the Suzuki needles are this way. NECJ is more rich than the NECK, but both are more lean than the NECW.

W = I (so that the letter I is not confused with a #1)

4th digit = straight portion
A = Rich -> Z = Lean
Smaller diameter = Richer (allows more fuel by)
Larger diameter = Leaner (allows less fuel by)

So the N2ZW(I) should be richer (smaller diameter) than the N2ZJ. Since the straight portion is smaller, where the taper starts will be smaller as well. So even though the taper is the same shape, since the needle itself is a smaller diameter it will make the needle a bit richer in that first transition area, when compared to the needle before it. For it to fuel exactly the same as the leaner needle, it would have to get larger again right at the beginning of the taper (which it does not). So even though the idle is richer, that initial transition on to the needle would be as well. So in other words, the smaller straight portion does affect more than strictly idle.

[aj_mariner]

Ahhh, that’s a nice piece of intel. W = I. Cheers

[throttle]

I'm kind of stuck with my (first beta) 2019 300rr. I should move the 165 down to 162 for my area [30c-36c/300m-600m ] and the needle is suggested to go from N2ZW #2 to N2ZJ but I'm already running lean in the middle and on deceleration. It wasn't the pump gas though 95 octane gas helped. I'm thinking 168 on the MJ and find a hair more narrow needle. I just took a math test and my brain is fried.

[throttle]

Not an active community maybe I ask wrong? Maybe if reworded, sorry if im not easy to understand.

The bike is stock jetted to run at 0-1000' in 78-98 degrees but the needle is clipped at the middle-#3 from top (not #2 per manual). 38/165 N2ZW-3.
It runs fat off idle but pretty lean around 1/4-1/2 throttle. Especially when its hot. On the top or heading to WOT it's OK but I'd categorize it as needing improvement compared to my previous KTM 300's. They had their carb/intake/exaust work before I owned them though.
I'm at same temps but closer to 1500+ feet and always humid as heck. I read somewhere to try a Steve Holcome (N84K) needle but I won't mess with that now. I think my issue is the needle.