Changing the carb needle 2015 300RR

[hooter]

Hi all, just got my Beta and I picked up a NECJ needle to try. But the little Allen head bolts holding the cap on the carb are REALLY tight. I'm applying so much force trying to remove them that I'm afraid I'm going to strip or break something.

Am I doing something wrong here? To change the needle, I should be removing the top part of the carb where the throttle cable enters right?

[twowheels]

Hi all, just got my Beta and I picked up a NECJ needle to try. But the little Allen head bolts holding the cap on the carb are REALLY tight. I'm applying so much force trying to remove them that I'm afraid I'm going to strip or break something.

Am I doing something wrong here? To change the needle, I should be removing the top part of the carb where the throttle cable enters right?

You're doing it right. Just make sure you've got a good fitting tool and be careful - they'll come out.

[hooter]

Hi all, just got my Beta and I picked up a NECJ needle to try. But the little Allen head bolts holding the cap on the carb are REALLY tight. I'm applying so much force trying to remove them that I'm afraid I'm going to strip or break something.

Am I doing something wrong here? To change the needle, I should be removing the top part of the carb where the throttle cable enters right?

You're doing it right. Just make sure you've got a good fitting tool and be careful - they'll come out.

Thanks. I went back and tried again and it came apart no problem. I guess I was just being a little too tentative the first time.

The NECJ needle is in there now, and from my quick ride up and down the road it does sound like the blubbering is gone. I'll give it a good run this weekend and see how it goes.

[Johnno]

They must put thread glue on them because they SHHTANGK! the first time you remove them.

I have the needle change down to a science, it's less than 10 minutes go to whoa tank off, slide out, needle swap, slide in tank on BRANG!

Hopefully the needle that's in mine is staying there, I do have another to try but I might just take comfort in the knowledge of having it.

[hooter]

They must put thread glue on them because they SHHTANGK! the first time you remove them.

Oh yeah, that might explain why they were so hard to remove. Hopefully this NECJ needle will be "the one" and I won't have to go back in there for a long time, if ever.

[GMP]

No loctite, just very snug dry threads. Anti-seize the retainer thread and you will have no issues. Also tape up the throttle cable and the ferrule under the small boot to help keep water out, or run the Motion Pro cable. I've seen a couple seized in the slides from water getting in there.

[hooter]

No loctite, just very snug dry threads. Anti-seize the retainer thread and you will have no issues. Also tape up the throttle cable and the ferrule under the small boot to help keep water out, or run the Motion Pro cable. I've seen a couple seized in the slides from water getting in there.

Thanks for the tips! Water ingress is a constant concern here in the PNW.

[cluffie]

They must put thread glue on them because they SHHTANGK! the first time you remove them.

I have the needle change down to a science, it's less than 10 minutes go to whoa tank off, slide out, needle swap, slide in tank on BRANG!

Hopefully the needle that's in mine is staying there, I do have another to try but I might just take comfort in the knowledge of having it.

i know the tank is easy to take off but i always change my needles with the tank left on. it's a bit tighter on the beta then my ktm but still easy.