Beta Riders Club Discussion Forum

Is there any way to remove the carb without taking off the sub frame?

It's not necessary.

Undo the lower bolt of the front sprocket cover, then pivot the cover upwards and then bend it outside of the frame.
Remove completely the carb's collars, the slide and then take out the front part and after the rear. It is very tight but it can be done. Actually it is harder when you put it back.

However it is slightly easier if you pivot the subframe.
Remove the lower allen bolts and the tie-wraps of the plastic protections.
Remove the silencer's 2 bolts (you can leave the silencer on the exhaust.
Undo the carb's rear collar and then pivot the s/frame forwards. You may need to remove the gas tank but that's easy (2 bolts on the frame and 2 bolts on the radiators).

If it's just for jetting changes removal is not needed. I can even rotate mine enough with the top/slide installed to do a main and pilot through the plug. I can get the slide out with a slight rotation toward the left, thats it. Easiest bike ever for carb work. You can hardly see the carb on a KTM.

I wanted to check my float before I started playing with the jetting. But your right it is very easy to get to everything, so much easier than my Honda.

rotor wrote:I wanted to check my float before I started playing with the jetting. But your right it is very easy to get to everything, so much easier than my Honda.

Did you check the float level?
I've been meaning to check mine for a while.

I also need to check why has the bike developed popping trough the exhaust on deceleration.
Are there any suggestions where to start with that?

yes, and it was ok. I tried different jets and needles but nothing I did seem to make it better than stock. So I but it back to what it was when I got it and it runs super clean.

Same here. I pulled the carb when new (shock out but subframe down) and float was good. Stock Jetting is good and the table seems very good too from changes I made for colder temps. I have a large needle selection and haven't felt the need to change, but it's easy if I do.

I was able to pull and reinstall carb just by undoing front sprocket guard and rotating it down.

What worked for me was, to push carb in towards back first and than slide it out the front boot.

Reinstall is reverse. Air box side first and than front. Removing front metal clamp helps.

It's tight fit though

That works too as the airboot is soft enough. I scrapped the sprocket guard, but cut off the upper chain buffer portion and retained it.

when I checked my float level it was in spec. but it would still flow pretty good from the overflow tube when on the side stand. I lowered it another 2mm