Oil Injection Malfunction

[Clearvu1]

2016 250RR. Recently noticed air bubble in feeder tube. No light on dash. Replaced the warranty issued capacitor with the original part and it worked again. Now, at start up oil pump indicator lights like it should, goes out then blinks twice, pauses, blinks twice, pauses....if I hit the throttle the light goes out, but the pump isn't pumping oil. Oil pump shows 21 ohms resistance. Any helpful ideas would be appreciated.

[wwguy]

The ECU can only detect electrical issues with the oil pump or TPS (i.e. disconnected or shorted etc.) It doesn't know if oil is actually flowing, or at what rate, which why I don't trust it on my bike.

According to Beta's Oil Injection Troubleshooting Guide v2 the groups of double-blinks that you're experiencing on your 2016 indicates a problem with the oil pump.

[Clearvu1]

Hmmm. The oil pump checks out with Ohms test, 20 ohms per Beta spec and if I jump it direct to a spare battery and mimic a pulse it pumps. The TPS also checks out right on spec. I checked over the replacement capacitor and it appears to be fine. I can see the wires to the cap and they appear to be intact. The voltage regulator has me concerned. My battery tests at 13.6 volts at rest but when I start the bike it climbs steadily to 17.5 volts. My theory is the high voltage caused damage to the OI control module in the ECU. Somebody tell me if they know this isn't true, please.

[Clearvu1]

Took the bike to my Beta dealer. He swapped out components until he could definitively say the problem wasn't the TPS, ECU, cap/diode or oil pump. He verified the voltage regulator was bad and I managed to get a "good will" warranty on that part. Big thanks to my dealer and Beta for diagnostic work and new part. So, I investigated further, found a few posts about the wiring harness and checked it out. Sure enough, ground wires had separated at the crimp connection. In hind sight I can identify ground related issues going back quite a while. First, the horn started to work intermittently, then the brake lights just quit working. The ground to the voltage regulator came loose and caused failure of that part which fried my battery. When I brought it back from the dealer the starter and the kill switch didn't work either. I spliced in a new connector with about an inch and a half of extra wire to relieve the stress on the connection and now everything works again, including the oil pump. In my opinion this is faulty engineering and Beta should build a new harness that relocates the crimp connection away from the bend the harness makes over the steering lock. I thought about asking for another "good will" warranty on the harness but thought better of it. A new harness will eventually have the same issues so why go through it twice.

[Clearvu1]

The big ground connection in the middle of the wiring diagram is the problem. This is located in the harness by the bend over the lock. Continuous stress causes eventual separation and potential damage. I somehow managed to catch mine before a catastrophic failure, but I'm certain there is engine wear/damage associated with the failure of the part. If you guys notice any unusual electrical problems look at this ground connection.