computer battery dies in two rides

[mlstevens]

Thought I had sorted my one by soldering, but after going out today computer battery died and the LOW started flashing and that's all that would show. I took the battery out and the computer worked OK but only with the engine running which proves it isn't a power issue but must be an issue with the unit. I will try and get a replacement under Warranty but suspect it may be an issue with most 2016 model units. Only other thing I can do is hard wire it direct to the battery with a means of switching it off while the bike is not being used. It does retain the ART but not the mileage which I can live with.

[AvB]

OK thanks. Sounds like I'd better refer it to the dealer. Surely they must be realizing worldwide that this is a problem and working out how to fix it or recall the units.

[AvB]

P.S. - the dealer has liaised with Beta and has organized for a replacement unit to be posted to me. Hope it doesn't do the same thing!

[Clearvu1]

If I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly the Pink/Purple wire from the 4 point connector on the back of the computer is the 12V power lead and it appears to come from the ECU. Is that what you guys are seeing? So, if the unit isn't getting 12V from the bike while it's running it could be the ECU that's at fault.
According to the owners manual the backlight will operate as long as the unit is getting 12V power from the bike or will continue to operate without 12V power until the internal 3V battery falls below 2.4 volts. It also says the unit won't work at all without the internal 3V battery installed. So, I'd say pull the plug and put a volt meter to the pink/purple wire, start the machine and see what you get. If you get 12V but the unit goes dark, check the 3V battery and see what you have. If it shows any reasonable Voltage I'd say your computer is bad. If it shows lower than 2.4 your computer should work but not be backlit. If you don't have any 12V juice to the unit you may have an issue at the ECU.

[Clearvu1]

That was too complicated.
The draw on the internal battery is 0.0001 Amp when the bike is not running. Therefore, the battery will die in 75 to 100 days depending on the brand of battery. This is exactly what I have experienced. Very poor design. IMO

The owners manual says the internal 3V battery should last one year. Doesn't specify any conditions, just says one year. I'm on number 2 in just under 6 months, my buddy is on number 3 in the same time.

[mlstevens]

I spoke to the UK importer today and it sounds like there is an issue after all. They are going to speak to Beta Technical (Italy). They are reluctant to send me a replacement as they suspect that will be the same. I did point out KTM use the same unit but without the OI warning lamp and they don't have an issue and on a new bike I don't expect to have to replace the battery every ride (2 Weeks). I am getting power as when the bike is running the back light stays on. I have taken the battery out so now it only works when the engine is running but as soon as it stops I lose the mileage. Only other alternative is to run a wire from the battery and connect this when i use the bike and disconnect in-between. Or replace with an after market computer but what do i do about the warning lights? I will persevere with Beta direct.

[Clearvu1]

If I'm reading the wiring diagram correctly the Pink/Purple wire from the 4 point connector on the back of the computer is the 12V power lead and it appears to come from the ECU. Is that what you guys are seeing? So, if the unit isn't getting 12V from the bike while it's running it could be the ECU that's at fault.
According to the owners manual the backlight will operate as long as the unit is getting 12V power from the bike or will continue to operate without 12V power until the internal 3V battery falls below 2.4 volts. It also says the unit won't work at all without the internal 3V battery installed. So, I'd say pull the plug and put a volt meter to the pink/purple wire, start the machine and see what you get. If you get 12V but the unit goes dark, check the 3V battery and see what you have. If it shows any reasonable Voltage I'd say your computer is bad. If it shows lower than 2.4 your computer should work but not be backlit. If you don't have any 12V juice to the unit you may have an issue at the ECU.

On closer look at the diagram the red wire in the 3 point connection runs to the regulator and should be hot.

[Volfy]

Or replace with an after market computer but what do i do about the warning lights? I will persevere with Beta direct.

I agree you should let Beta sort out the problem first.

As for the warning lights, it wouldn't be that difficult to wire up external LEDs to the warning lights wires. Trail Tech sells a kit for their Vapor speedometer that let you add up to 4 indicator lights: http://www.trailtech.net/digital-gauges ... es/022-pda

After market computers are not that difficult to install, especially if you stay with Trail Tech, which makes the stock computer for Beta. I swapped in a Trail Tech Voyager and it was almost a plug and play. The stock bracket fits the Voyager perfectly. Not surprising, since the RS models comes stock with Voyager. The replacement front wheel speed sensor fits exactly the same way as the stock sensor.

[bryanaverill]

I connected the bike 12v power to the battery through a switch. Now, the bike doesn't need to be running to power the meter. The meter appears to go to sleep when powered but the bike is not moving or motor not running. Running or moving the bike will wake up the meter. Still haven't had a chance to ride but I think this will fix the problem.

[Angustoyou]

How did you connect it? Did you leave the 3 pin connector as it is and run one wire from the battery live through a switch and joining the red wire before it enters the instruments? (After the 3 pin connector?) If it goes to sleep when the bikes not running/ rolling, do you think you could do without the switch?