computer battery dies in two rides

[mtdirtbag]

I had the flickering tail light problem on my 14 when I first got it, turned out to be one of the funky electrical connectors behind the headlight, used a small zip tie to keep it solid.

[chrisinflight]

I,m in the process of tidying up all the wiring up front and checking connections. I can only describe it as a crude knot behind the RH fork leg putting a strain on the loom above the steering lock. The flasher relay was being pushed into this by the headlight.

[chrisinflight]

To summarise, the dash has gone into low battery mode twice even though the button battery is full. You can still ride in this mode but no warning lights or recording of hours/miles. The total hours/miles are not lost though when the battery is removed. I have a flashing backlight and voltage at the red wire feed in the connector was 14.7v but jumping all over. I,m installing a direct feed from the main battery for a usb socket so want to power the computer from this fused live feed wire. Do I splice into the red wire after the 3-pin connector and leave the existing circuit or do I cut the red wire and join?
Am I wasting my time as its probably the computer at fault?

[XTrainerChuck]

I have a 2016 XTrainer. The first owner pressure washed the bike and got water in the computer. When I purchased the bike the dealer replaced the computer under warranty. The battery only lasted 3 weeks. Assuming this was a new unit and not simply taken off another bike they haven't corrected the issue.

[Johnno]

My original battery died I think because of innumerable sits on the bike in the shed, spinning the front wheel on the stand etc. I replaced it with something I had on hand and it died quick. I then put a CR 2032 in it ( not all 3 volt button batteries are created equal ) and so far it's going good.

One thing with these Beta's eh, it's a small world and we all find the problems and we share the info.

We know about the float level, the little idiosyncrasies and we know the fixes.

I hope I always stays like this.

[Angustoyou]

My battery problems were routing/connector based, and are now history. As you've found faulty power supply from the bike, I'd fix that before looking at replacing anything.

[chrisinflight]

Update. Iv,e cleaned the connectors and have a feeling the headlight connector was causing the backlight to flicker. I,ll see when I go for a ride on Saturday. The bad news is my dealer- Acklams Beta failed to respond to the problem. The good news is BetaUK did respond(quickly) and said they will send a new computer out no problem. I pay for it and money is refunded when I send my one in. They also said there has been no issues with computers just loose connection problems.

[chrisinflight]

My battery problems were routing/connector based, and are now history. As you've found faulty power supply from the bike, I'd fix that before looking at replacing anything.

Thank you, you may be right!

[chrisinflight]

There is a connector on the starter solenoid with four ¼” tab terminals. The mating connector has three wires and one empty position. I connected to the empty tab with a mating socket and 18 awg wire routed to the front of the bike. This effectively connects to the battery through the 10A fuse (important detail IMO). Then, I mounted a switch right next to the meter with a little z-bent piece of aluminum sheet metal and attached this with one of the M4 meter mounting screws. The wire mentioned above is then connected to the center pole of the switch. The switched pole is then connected to the turn signal flasher plug which is empty on my bike. You need to select the bike power side of the flasher plug and connect with another ¼” tab terminal. No part of the bike wiring harness is modified in any way. All the bike plugs, including the meter, are connected normally. Nothing is disconnected. When the switch is ON, everything connected to this circuit is powered up. This includes the meter but not the headlight. I have left the switch ON for a week and the battery has not dropped at all. I hope that the sleep mode draw is low enough so that the switch can be eliminated. Time will tell.
P.S. – I think the sleep mode current I measured before was not “deep” sleep. Some devices go to deep sleep after prolonged inactivity and draw only micro current. I hope the Beta meter works this way.

I, m still having problems with the computer shutting down. It seems to happen when starting the bike after a break from riding afew hours. I, ve now wired a 12v feed to the flasher unit. Which of the two terminals do you use to plug into the bikes power side? The + or the L? Should this power up the computer with the engine off as it, s not on mine.
thanks, Chris

[Mikhail]

Have the same issue here - tail light is semi-working (occasionally working) and 2032 battery dies after just few hrs...So annoying.