X Trainer engine warning light

[Richard Simpson]

Hello, from Cornwall in the UK

I just acquired a little-used 2018/19 300 X-trainer.

Pretty much as stock so far as I know, apart from heated grips, which I have not used, yet.

The horn wasn't working at all, so I tried substituting a new AC horn. It makes only a tiny little sound, then goes quiet. Should I have used a DC horn...I assumed that as the lights only work off a running engine and are clearly AC, the horn would be as well.

I've since noticed the engine warning lamp no longer goes out after start up...could this be related? It was working fine before.

How can I diagnose/reset the lamp?

I've currently (pun ) disconnected the earth wire on the battery in the hope everything will reset...but should I take the battery out of the speedo too to do this?

It's a pain because the bike needs an MoT (roadworthiness) test, and it won't pass with an engine warning lamp illuminated or a horn that doesn't sound 'a single continuous note'.

All advice gratefully received, and a Happy New Year to all

[Richard Simpson]

Thanks to everyone who has taken the trouble to read this.

I left the battery disconnected overnight. Reconnected and started the engine, and the engine light went out.

Connected the replacement horn, pressed the button and the engine light came back on!

I can only conclude that the replacement horn (a generic item from Wemoto) is faulty.

Sadly, the genuine part is out of stock in the UK.

[F5 Dave]

Or that the loom is shorting.

What the hell is an AC horn? Nah mate they all work the same and DC surely.

Test horn just on the battery.

[Richard Simpson]

Thanks for the reply, and a Happy New Year. I was feeling like I was talking to an empty room!

No, there are horns for AC and DC.

I've done a bit more since my last post. I've got live AC on the red wire to the horn, and tested the Wemoto horn on another AC bike (it works). I've also taken a DC horn off yet another bike and it doesn't work on AC. So I can conclude that the horn is actuated by the handlebar switch completing the circuit to earth.

So that's the next line of investigation.

I'm running a bit of a thread on the bike here

https://adventurebikerider.com/forum/vi ... 23&t=51798

If you are interested in following it!

[F5 Dave]

I've done all my trouble shooting on roadbikes. I'd assumed with large battery for starter they would be conventional. Italians and wiring huh?

Typically components are fed power and a switch grounds them, like your brake light etc.

So the next obvious thing is to complete the circuit with a wire on the switch side of the horn ( disconnected from switch) to ground. Does it work then?

[Richard Simpson]

Thanks for getting back.

I've been sent a better wiring diagram than the one I had, and I can now see that the supply to the horn is DC...it is current from the rectifier, which is only live when the engine is running.

With the red wire having a good feed of current, I think the fault must lie between the horn itself and earth, which the switch completes.

A DC horn is on its way, and meanwhile, I'm filling in my tax form!

All the best

Richard

[F5 Dave]

Where did you get to ascertaining battery health. Odd stuff happens when battery voltage sags. Usually the starter would provide a clue but these things start instantly.

Meter over terminals, lights should cause a fairly quick drop. Then of course voltage when running.

[Richard Simpson]

It seems very strong, but I've not actually measured it.