Settings or valving issue?

[Enmerdeur]

Good thing I'm changing the fluid very often. Forks only have 42hrs and are on their 3rd oil change. I also torque properly by the table, but have noticed that it might not be enough torque as a medium get off can tweak bar alignment pretty easily.

So I don't think my fork harshness is due to the forks being worn. Any other useful tips or things to change. I've had them apart a few times now so don't mind getting into the valving but I'm a newbie and don't even know what to change. I've been reading/researching a lot, but would still need some pointers.

It sounds like they are riding too much in the mid-stroke (from your initial post). So two observations:

1. You haven't mentioned whether you have them sprung correctly for your weight
2. If they are sprung correctly I would try more compression dampening to keep the forks up in the stroke.

[Marty Moose]

My 140hr open chambers are fine maybe its the CC only that are the issue if there is an issue at all. Hope they are not like the Zooks they are a deal breaker imho....

MM

The OC and CC use the same upper and lower tubes, the difference being axle lugs and color. We've found that the wear always starts on the disk side, and have seen it on all varieties (ie colors) of Sachs forks. As was previously stated, lower clamp torque is a critical setting, and clean fluid is essential.

Rider speed and terrain are only two in a very long list of factors that contribute to the wear - regular maintenance is critical.

Well that sucks Oil yeh mine have been apart heaps and done lots and lots of big whoops it must be the oil Meh have SSS's now

MM

[bikesparky]

The OC and CC use the same upper and lower tubes, the difference being axle lugs and color. We've found that the wear always starts on the disk side, and have seen it on all varieties (ie colors) of Sachs forks. As was previously stated, lower clamp torque is a critical setting, and clean fluid is essential.

Rider speed and terrain are only two in a very long list of factors that contribute to the wear - regular maintenance is critical.

I noticed the black sludge at the bottom of the forks at the first oil change. Before that neither the forks or the triple clamps never been touched. The bolts had the red paint on it from the factory. When I undid the bolts, following my feel, the torque setting was accurate.
The forks had round 10 hours on it then. I always use quality synthetic fluid and make sure all is meticulously clean. if I wouldn't have cleaned the mess out then they would probably have been grounded down and worn even earlier. Next oil change at 40 hrs was exactly the same.

P|$$ poor performance!!! Not happy!

[Enmerdeur]

I assume we are talking about the outer chamber fluid here. What about the fluid in the cartridge itself?

[JoeMaico]

I did my first fork oil change back in November on my 2016 300 race edition. It had about 30 hours on it, and it was a BYOB bike. I had the springs swapped when I had it built, so I know that BETA USA opened it up and changed the original outer chamber fluid when they swapped springs. There was no reason to mess with the inner chamber then. When I changed the fluid, the outer chamber fluid of the CC Forks was dark brown. It had kind of a dirty oily look to it. The inner chamber fluid was pristine - no signs of contamination at all. I have not ridden it much since then, so it is not ready for a another change yet. I attributed the the dirty oil to residue on the springs. However, after reading of others issues - I am not so sure now. When it warms up, and I get a few more rides on it, I will change the oil again and see how it looks. If it is filthy again, I guess I will have to get into a routine of changing it after every 10 hours or so - to prolong the life of the internals. Personally, if BETA knew about a poor manufacturing process for the coatings on the fork tubes, they should have issued a recall. My bike is out of warranty, and my only recourse now is to replace (at my expense) when they become unusable.

joe

[Enmerdeur]

This coating looks promising

http://www.techlinecoatings.com/hi-perf ... ndyze.html

[mistico]

Good thing I'm changing the fluid very often. Forks only have 42hrs and are on their 3rd oil change. I also torque properly by the table, but have noticed that it might not be enough torque as a medium get off can tweak bar alignment pretty easily.

So I don't think my fork harshness is due to the forks being worn. Any other useful tips or things to change. I've had them apart a few times now so don't mind getting into the valving but I'm a newbie and don't even know what to change. I've been reading/researching a lot, but would still need some pointers.

It sounds like they are riding too much in the mid-stroke (from your initial post). So two observations:

1. You haven't mentioned whether you have them sprung correctly for your weight
2. If they are sprung correctly I would try more compression dampening to keep the forks up in the stroke.

Sag numbers check out OK, I only swapped the shock spring to a 5.4 and actually lowered the preload on the forks to the lowest setting. I'll try to measure sag again tonight and post numbers. I know shock is at 28mm static and 100mm race sag, forks I have written down somewhere in garage.

[Enmerdeur]

Sag numbers check out OK, I only swapped the shock spring to a 5.4 and actually lowered the preload on the forks to the lowest setting. I'll try to measure sag again tonight and post numbers. I know shock is at 28mm static and 100mm race sag, forks I have written down somewhere in garage.

If you had to go up one size on the rear you probably need to do the same for the forks. What is your weight? Generally I find trying to measure sag in the fork with any degree of accuracy to be an exercise in futility. And it usually does not really help in determining what is really needed.

When you say you lowered the preload, do you mean you gave it less preload?

[mistico]

I weight 185lbs without gear, but I never got enough sag on the forks with standard preload(which made me question if they are the correct rate).

Yes, the forks have three internal notches/grooves where you move a ring/clip. I raised the clip which lowers the preload. I think I'll just order .44 springs from Steve and give those a try.

[Enmerdeur]

I weight 185lbs without gear, but I never got enough sag on the forks with standard preload(which made me question if they are the correct rate).

Yes, the forks have three internal notches/grooves where you move a ring/clip. I raised the clip which lowers the preload. I think I'll just order .44 springs from Steve and give those a try.

I am assuming the stock springs are .42 like the other 300 so yes at 185 I would think you would definitely need heavier springs. Maybe even .46's. Sometimes I fine tune my spring rates by running one rate in one leg and another rate in the other. .44/.46 would give and effective rate of .45, etc.

Steve will be the best consultant on this since he has experience with these particular forks.