SP Suggestions for Tuning Your Beta Suspension

[Arctra]

Do you mind if I ratchet up a notch talking about the Marzocchi's? I know you run a business and so won't want to give too much away, but whatever you can say would be appreciated.

When I got my 2014 498 Racing edition the first thing I did was upgrade the stock 0.46 kg/mm springs to much heavier duty 0.54 kg/mm springs as I weighed in at about 130kg (286lbs). With the stock valving I struggled with the front end diving through the first bit of the stroke despite the heavier duty spring and winding my compression damping clickers in. So I got it revalved.

When I got the revalving done the tuner told me that the "Staged Free Bleed shims" up against the valve ports was not a good thing. So he removed the 28x0.10 and 12x0.10 shims up against the valve ports. He also replaced the three 32x0.15 shims (now up against the valve piston ports) to thinner 0.10 shims instead. He stiffened up the rest of the shim stack to with a series of larger diameter shims than the stock valving had as well, and inished up by replacing the stock 11x0.20 clamping shim (last shim in the stack) with a much larger 18x0.10 shim.

The larger clamping shim on its own would have significantly increased the overall compression damping by the shim stack from what I understand. It definitely stopped the front end diving. My question to you would be whether the diving I initially experienced was likely because of the overall lack of compression damping of the stock shim stack, or the staged free bleed shim setup? I am lead to believe that the staged free bleed shim setup is to help overcoming the high cartridge pressure in the Marzocchi's.

In your opinion, is a free bleed shim setup necessary or advisable with the Marzocchi forks? Is it likely to lead to the diving issue I experienced more than the weakness of the overall compression damping shim stack?

[GMP]

This is the type of question that may get a different answer from every tuner you ask, and no one is neccessarily 100% right or wrong depending on the rider's needs and use. If all your guy did was play with the base valve then he wasn't using all the tools in the box.

[Balkan boy]

Twowheels, thanks for the clarification.

In addition to the above reply, if you have an earlier model Sachs for you will need to go through the cap "indexing" procedure to ensure you end up with the proper amount of rebound clicks.

My bike is a 2013. 400RR. Is that an early model?
I've seen the indexing process in you video. Thanks for that.

One more question:
What quantity of oil (or oil hight) do you recommend?

[mrquick68]

Alan,

You gave the Dirt Rider guys some good suggestions for a starting point on the Sachs Fork, but I haven't seen any comments the Marzocchi's. I've got 2015 300RR Race, and would love a good starting point to tune from. I've got about 10 hours on the bike now, so they should be broke in. They still a bit harsh. Good bottom resistance for my type of riding (usually ride a lot of West Coast mountains, but this winter more desert, and techy rocky terrain). As you noted, the Zocchi's to ride noticeable higher in the stroke.

Appreciate the help. I probably be sending the shock and fork to you for a full work here soon, but until then a baseline would be good.

[pguerci]

In addition to the above reply, if you have an earlier model Sachs for you will need to go through the cap "indexing" procedure to ensure you end up with the proper amount of rebound clicks.

What does "an earlier model Sachs" mean? This indexing procedure might not be necessary on 2015 Sachs?

[Enmerdeur]

In addition to the above reply, if you have an earlier model Sachs for you will need to go through the cap "indexing" procedure to ensure you end up with the proper amount of rebound clicks.

What does "an earlier model Sachs" mean? This indexing procedure might not be necessary on 2015 Sachs?

On the 300 only the 2013 had this goofy design.

[pguerci]

Great, thanks!

[pguerci]

Which are the right values for static and race sag for the SACHS on the 2015 300RR?