Dirty fork oil syndrome

[KB112]

This is what my fork oil looked like. Terrible! 18 hrs since it was new. Self destruct mode.

That is pretty crazy. Before I got my new Beta i had a ktm with CC forks and i changed the fork oil twice, both times after 40 hours and it was clear with just a streak of dark matter as you got to the bottom of the fluid where stuff had settled. Both inner and outer were this way.

Im going to respring the Beta shortly and will post if anything is abnormal. There will only be a couple hours on the bike though and I wont open the inner cart.

[bikesparky]

Just my 2 cents after my experiences.
I love this bike to bits but Beta needs to kick Sachs up the back side or change suppliers!

After my Sachs CC wore out after less then 50hrs (3 oil changes) they got replaced under warranty, so no complaints there in regards to service from both the dealer and importer.

On the other hand I have access to different suspension people due to moving places a few times and when I asked around they ALL agree that the sachs stuff suffers quality issues. If you think your forks are bad, the shocks are even worse due to there only be one and under higher stress and workload. It probably uses the same soft anodizing too.
Almost all Sachs shocks that come in for service are either prematurely worn, totally worn out or the body split. (one guy currently has 3 bodies on order and there's no stock) When the anodizing goes the piston wears out the alu and has little sticktion moments in there, which in a lot of cases splits the shock body.
I'm about to go away for a few weeks and wanted to drop the shock and forks off at my suspension guy and he told me not to bother as the shock is probably toast or that worn out that a new coating wont work and there be damping loss due to the tube wear, like a piston in a worn bore. He suggested, against his business, to keep my money in my pocket for now.
His advise is to put the Sachs forks in a corner and keep using the KYBs.
For the shock, when its bad enough replace with something else.

His words not mine! I asked my suspension mates overseas and they pretty much said the same thing.

[oldman]

At 40hrs I installed Racetech Gold Valve kits in the shock and forks on my 17 300RR. The fluid in the shock looked great, there was no residue in it what so ever, looked fresh. The surfaces inside the shock showed zero signs of wear, all still looked new inside. The fluid in the forks was very dirty and the insides of the outer aluminum tubes coating was showing some wear at the lower triple clamp area. Then when I opened my forks 18hrs later the terrible looking fluid I showed above is what I found.

[Enmerdeur]

At 40hrs I installed Racetech Gold Valve kits in the shock and forks on my 17 300RR. The fluid in the shock looked great, there was no residue in it what so ever, looked fresh. The surfaces inside the shock showed zero signs of wear, all still looked new inside. The fluid in the forks was very dirty and the insides of the outer aluminum tubes coating was showing some wear at the lower triple clamp area. Then when I opened my forks 18hrs later the terrible looking fluid I showed above is what I found.

Yes every time I have serviced my Sachs shock it has been pristine.

I did dumped my fork fluid last night. This is on a new set of Sachs CC forks with about 12 hours. Fluid was gray but there is zero sign of wear on the inside of the upper fork tube. Looks like just from the bushings wearing in. Going to put fresh fluid in and check again in 15 hours.

If yours is wearing at where it is clamped I would review your torquing method. I use a precise inch lbs torque wrench and torque to 97 inch lbs (11 nm)

[oldman]

I use a high quality inch lb. torque wrench as well. As per the specs in the Beta torque table I have my upper clamps at 14nm and my lower clamps at 9nm.

[Enmerdeur]

I use a high quality inch lb. torque wrench as well. As per the specs in the Beta torque table I have my upper clamps at 14nm and my lower clamps at 9nm.

The torque table on the Beta site shows 17nm for the upper and 12nm for lower. I have always used the KTM spec which is 17 upper, 11 lower.

[oldman]

I use a high quality inch lb. torque wrench as well. As per the specs in the Beta torque table I have my upper clamps at 14nm and my lower clamps at 9nm.

The torque table on the Beta site shows 17nm for the upper and 12nm for lower. I have always used the KTM spec which is 17 upper, 11 lower.

My bad. Actually I got these torque specs here. They are pinned to the start of the General Discussion and Announcements forum.
Also I read somewhere that Beta had adjusted the lower clamp torque to the same as those posted here.

[Enmerdeur]

Hold the phone. Under further inspection under better light I can indeed see that it has worn through the inner finish where the lower clamp clamps the tube.

Not good.

[Enmerdeur]

Strangely enough the left fork tube (brake side) looks fine.

[mistico]

My 16 CC Sachs have 60hrs, 5 fluid changes, and the internal coating has also worn off on the non-caliper side upper fork leg.
Sucks.