putting on a new Shock spring / taking shock out

Tuning and maintenance of forks, shocks, etc.

Re: putting on a new Shock spring / taking shock out

Postby brantsdad » Thu Apr 17, 2014 8:05 pm

Got it done... had to remove both the tank and loosen the subrame /carb boot on the carb... actually easier than I thought it would be... now to set sag in the coming days... thanks to all who helped me out :)
2013 300RR
2004 Husqvarna 167 (125 big bore) I should have never sold her
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Re: putting on a new Shock spring / taking shock out

Postby dirtbird » Fri Apr 18, 2014 1:57 am

Don't forget to loctite the subframe bolts (all of them even the top ones that you perhaps did not loosen).
And remember that you have to check them periodically.
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Re: putting on a new Shock spring / taking shock out

Postby brantsdad » Fri Apr 18, 2014 7:18 am

dirtbird wrote:Don't forget to loctite the subframe bolts (all of them even the top ones that you perhaps did not loosen).
And remember that you have to check them periodically.


Thanks for the reminder... forgot about that...
2013 300RR
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Re: putting on a new Shock spring / taking shock out

Postby thumperrider1 » Tue Apr 22, 2014 9:58 am

Let us know what sag numbers you get with a 5.2

I am thinking it will be a ton of preload?

I have a 5.2 and I'm 160lbs with no gear.
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Re: putting on a new Shock spring / taking shock out

Postby 454X » Mon Apr 28, 2014 9:15 pm

My 2014 300RR came stock with a 5.2 I finally set the sag and and tuned the shock a little. Took two turns to get from 125 to 115mm riding sag. I'm 235 lbs with gear and feel there's already to much preload. I think a 5.4-5.6 would work better. Just wanted to share my experience since we got our bikes near the same time.
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Re: putting on a new Shock spring / taking shock out

Postby GMP » Tue Apr 29, 2014 7:01 am

You should probably have a 5.6. I'm 30 lbs lighter and wouldn't want any more preload on my 5.2.
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Re: putting on a new Shock spring / taking shock out

Postby thumperrider1 » Tue Apr 29, 2014 7:35 am

What is the happy spot for sag on these bikes? For singletrack riding. Is it around 105mm or does it like a little more sag?
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Re: putting on a new Shock spring / taking shock out

Postby GMP » Tue Apr 29, 2014 8:25 am

100 to 105mm, no more. Front end is light. Run your shock rebound out as far as you can stand. Fork PFP as much as you need to be stiff enough, no more. Leave the comp clickers 15-18 and work with PFP. Fork rebound on the tight side. Even with stiffer rebound valving, mine is happiest under 10 clicks out. Spent some time Sunday figuring this out. PFP is a very valuable adjustment, I'm working on something to make it more useful still.
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Re: putting on a new Shock spring / taking shock out

Postby thumperrider1 » Tue Apr 29, 2014 12:58 pm

Thanks. I will tell you I'm running flexx bars and getting to the top fork compression adjuster is not easy at all..........

I went with the baseline that you sent me and ended up a few clicks softer on fork compression (still need to swap to 4.0 spring set) and a few clicks softer on the shock compresion, and two additional turns out on the HS shock rebound. Worked pretty darned good.

Shock is ok. It's possible the 5.2 spring is a little stiff for 160lbs with no gear. I think I was spoiled coming off the factory connection worked KYB shock on my 250f. The forks are pretty darned close and the zokes are all stock.

I'm going to get a Stillwell valved Fox shock as soon as someone buys my Sachs unit.
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Re: putting on a new Shock spring / taking shock out

Postby GMP » Tue Apr 29, 2014 6:12 pm

I made a special tool for getting under my flex bars. Its like a small disc with a short straight blade that slips between the bars and PFP knob. What I found though, is that the same comp setting works for a range of conditions, and PFP is the effective adjustment. I've done some valving on the fork and Les at LTR did my shock over the winter, both stiffer. Using minimum PFP I still get a really good ride in the slower technical rocks. Now I'm working on a mod to the compression unit that uses a shorter PFP spring of the same rate, that I can preload less, and move the effective range of the adjuster from 0 - 2 turns in to 4 - 6 turns in, and extend the minimum(softer) range. I don't necessarily think softer PFP springs are a good idea for everyone. I really like this fork, its very versatile. Just service it after break in and often. Watch your lower clamp torque. At the first sign of excessively dirty outer oil, check the uppers for wear. Don't be shy to have them T3 coated by RaceTech eventually. I did this and polished the springs, and ID of the lowers. Smooth as silk and clean oil.

As far as the shock, if you liked a revalved KYB you will like a revalved Sachs. What I had done was added rebound so I could run the adjuster more open, minimizing crosstalk, and giving me a large range to go stiffer if needed. I never rode a Fox or a TTX but there are a lot of really fast guys in the ECEA and all run stock shocks properly valved on a number of bike brands. I think a lot of guys get sucked up in the marketing hype and forget its still a shock that needs to be valved anyway.
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