by GMP » Tue Apr 29, 2014 6:12 pm
I made a special tool for getting under my flex bars. Its like a small disc with a short straight blade that slips between the bars and PFP knob. What I found though, is that the same comp setting works for a range of conditions, and PFP is the effective adjustment. I've done some valving on the fork and Les at LTR did my shock over the winter, both stiffer. Using minimum PFP I still get a really good ride in the slower technical rocks. Now I'm working on a mod to the compression unit that uses a shorter PFP spring of the same rate, that I can preload less, and move the effective range of the adjuster from 0 - 2 turns in to 4 - 6 turns in, and extend the minimum(softer) range. I don't necessarily think softer PFP springs are a good idea for everyone. I really like this fork, its very versatile. Just service it after break in and often. Watch your lower clamp torque. At the first sign of excessively dirty outer oil, check the uppers for wear. Don't be shy to have them T3 coated by RaceTech eventually. I did this and polished the springs, and ID of the lowers. Smooth as silk and clean oil.
As far as the shock, if you liked a revalved KYB you will like a revalved Sachs. What I had done was added rebound so I could run the adjuster more open, minimizing crosstalk, and giving me a large range to go stiffer if needed. I never rode a Fox or a TTX but there are a lot of really fast guys in the ECEA and all run stock shocks properly valved on a number of bike brands. I think a lot of guys get sucked up in the marketing hype and forget its still a shock that needs to be valved anyway.
Glenn
'13 Beta 300RR Racing