300 racing fork colour

[Ed Lew]

Hi, anyone know what the ral number is for the red twin chamber forks is on the 300 racing model, and where to get them anodised in the uk? I’m convering some kyb sss forks. Also anyone out there bought any beta lugs to swop from the Yamaha ones?

[dirtbird]

Regarding the aesthetics, simply don't try it. You can't color - code the uppers which are anodized. You have to remove current anodizing and then re-anodized in red. But this includes the inner, working part of the uppers as well and since KYBs are good its better not to mess with this. If you were thinking to powder coat with electrostatic paint, I don’t think that this will last even from when you slide the forks through the triples.
Steve - twowheels probably will be able to offer a better insight about this.

Regarding the lugs, take special care when removing the KYB lugs from the tubes. They have a locating pin on the inside which is screwed and then rounded at the top. It has to machined off in a machine shop otherwise you will destroy the tubes' threads. Beta forks (Sachs or Marzocchis) also have a locating screw but this can be unfastened. Take into account that in both cases a thread repair (for both tubes and lugs) may be needed and as the thread pass is 48X1 mm, a tap/die set is not common and doesn't comes cheap.
Yes they use the same thread size.
Another problem if you plan to exchange lugs (which is not a bad idea in terms of keeping the same offset and original axle fitment ) is the base compression adjuster size. The KYB has smaller diameter and you will need to make an adapter for the Beta lug. This as well, is harder than it sounds...

[Ed Lew]

Thanks for the reply dirtbird. After giving much thought to your comments, I contacted an anodisers who said they do tubes all thevtime and there won’t be a problem. As for the lugs I managed to pick up a set of beta forks so I am going to have a go at swopping the lugs. When you say the screw is fastened from the inside, what fo you mean? There is a screw on the outside of the lug, can I drill this and remove with a screw extractor?

[dirtbird]

Yes I was referring to this locating screw that is on the inner, wheel side.

Is this is a KYB fork? If yes maybe it's better to take it to a machine shop to remove it. If it's a Sachs or Marzocchi fork (lug doesn't looks like it) you just unfasten it.

[twowheels]

Just because you can doesn't mean you should. Cosmetic anodizing isn't up to the task.

[Ed Lew]

Ok then, I have removed the screw and the legs have un screwed from the lugs ok. The money I save from the anodisers, is it worth having the legs ti nitride coated as the chrome has a few marks and a couple of small raised dimples at the bottom of one leg?

[dirtbird]

Post some photos but if the legs are tired or well used, no it's not a good idea to spend more on them. Also the dimples may lead to oil leaking/premature seals wear.

Better look around for replacement legs.
And especially if you're in US, better call Steve (twowheels).

[Goatse]

Just because you can doesn't mean you should. Cosmetic anodizing isn't up to the task.

I agree. I love the red forks, but it's just not possible to get a decent Type III anodized finish. If someone is stripping them and getting them anodized, you might as well get a proper "hardcoat".

The hardest of all hardcoats is that natural olive looking color you see, but if someone wants to at least go with a black type III anodize finish (hardcoat), it'll still be a harder than any other Type II finish that comes on any production forks.

I wouldn't be able to handle the olive color on my bike, so I went with a black type III hardcoat. Black or natural were the only 'colors' available to keep it a Type III finish.

[aj_mariner]

If KYB and others are already doing a type 2 class 2, then why would there be a problem just switching colors?

[Goatse]

If KYB and others are already doing a type 2 class 2, then why would there be a problem just switching colors?

I'd be surprised if Beta's/Sachs' red is a Type II coating.