Beta Riders Club Discussion Forum

I have a rear spring that is apparently a "big boy" version- 6.2 as labeled, which is for someone roughly 90lbs heavier than me. So yeah, it works great with saddle bags, gear, tools, and a passenger, but when I'm in dirt trim...

I haven't inspected the fork springs for weight, but I'm assuming it's balanced.

No, I have not set preload or sag, I'm just a dumb rider (really, I don't know any better).

Anyway, can I just install the correct spring weights, or do I need to have everything revalved?

I assume you bought the bike used and it was set up for a heavier rider. I would also assume that both the fork and shock springs were set up for the heavier rider. So, if you were to swap out both the shock and fork springs for ones that are closer to your riding weight (which includes riding gear and camel back full of water), you could probably get by without any re-valving. You wont know until you try. If the bike was re-valved by the previous owner when they set it up, the stock clicker settings may not be optimal, and you may need to back them out more than usual. But, again, until you try it you will not know.

joe

JoeMaico wrote:I assume you bought the bike used and it was set up for a heavier rider. I would also assume that both the fork and shock springs were set up for the heavier rider. So, if you were to swap out both the shock and fork springs for ones that are closer to your riding weight (which includes riding gear and camel back full of water), you could probably get by without any re-valving. You wont know until you try. If the bike was re-valved by the previous owner when they set it up, the stock clicker settings may not be optimal, and you may need to back them out more than usual. But, again, until you try it you will not know.

joe

Very astute assumptions! Yes, purchased used (I never met the previous owner). Also, no obvious "Shop Stickers" like you would find after a custom valve job. Last, the rear spring is an off the shelf spring, so your assumptions support my assumption that the previous owner simply swapped new springs and called it a day.

Thanks for providing support to my assumption (confirmation bias at work).

So with lighter spring on I'm guessing rebound will be slow if it has been revalved for big spring. If clicker wound in set to std and try it.

For just a simple straight up answer to your question;

Yes. You should be able to.

Most people don't do radical valving changes and whatever valving is in there is probably fine. If the valving isn't upsetting you with the heavy springs, it's not likely to upset you with lighter springs. At the least, it's not likely to be dangerous and if you don't like it after you have changed springs, you can send it back out and have it revalved then.

Be aware that you will have to have re-set the sag and very likely re-set the clickers.

OldEz wrote:For just a simple straight up answer to your question;

Yes. You should be able to.

Most people don't do radical valving changes and whatever valving is in there is probably fine. If the valving isn't upsetting you with the heavy springs, it's not likely to upset you with lighter springs. At the least, it's not likely to be dangerous and if you don't like it after you have changed springs, you can send it back out and have it revalved then.

Be aware that you will have to have re-set the sag and very likely re-set the clickers.

Thanks for the confirmation! I purchased the Xtrig remote preload (waiting for shipping confirmation), and of course I'll be sorting out the sag. I haven't set it yet, but I will when I remember to bring a tape measure to my next riding event (already have the tape in the tool kit).

And looking for specifically .46 front springs and a 5.6 rear if anyone has one. 2016 430 with OC Sachs up front.

I'm getting ready to swap springs only, 1 range softer. Is there a video or link that will run through the process ? On my Yami I can do it wet with the forks inverted. Ca I do the same with the ZF?

GMK999 wrote:I'm getting ready to swap springs only, 1 range softer. Is there a video or link that will run through the process ? On my Yami I can do it wet with the forks inverted. Ca I do the same with the ZF?

I'm pretty sure that you can swap springs with the forks on the bike if you are completely invested. However, off the bike is easier.

• Back all of the clickers completely out (counter clockwise) until lightly set
• Loosen the pinch bolts on the top clamp
• Loosen the fork cap (just enough that it's loose, don't remove)
• Remove the wheel
• Loosen the lower clamp pinch bolts
• Remove the fork
• Remove the fork cap from the outer tube
  
  • (note that the inner rod will soon sink below the level of the spring, and you will have to retrieve the rod to attach the cap; be prepared!)
• Slide the outer tube down
• Replace the spring

Keep the fork vertical and you should only lose the oil that clings to the spring. Installation is the reverse.

Thank you!! Not dissimilar to the YZ just from the top instead of the bottom. I got this! Thanks again