First oil change in my Marzocchi forks!

[Phatpat]

So I was told to change the oil in my Marzocchi's after about 10h of initial riding and after reading another thread about these forks I think I might try less oil too, and try different PFP-settings as I haven't touched anything other faster rebound for our rough Swedish forest enduro riding. Wouldn't mind getting a recommended PFP-setting and oil amount for outer chamber for trails in woods with a lot of roots and rocks and generally quite uneven surfaces (typical Swedish enduro).

So anything I need to think of when changing the oil and disassembling the forks? Got my fork wrench and just ordered the tool to get the inner chamber thingy out. Also got that "tool" for setting the oil level.

I've changed oil and springs in WP open cartridge forks several times and that's pretty simple, is working on the Marzocchi's a lot more complicated? I downloaded the manual and will print it out. Been trying to find a video about it on YT but just found some crappy one with pictures in Portugues or something.

[twowheels]

Phatpaht, I hope you kept the receipt for the tool to set the oil level - it is done by volume

The inner chamber volume is 210cc. The studs on the factory team are said to use 380cc in the outer leg, but mere mortals usually run 300-310cc.

There have been numerous threads on the subject over on the gasgasrider.org site (brought to you by the same great folks that run this one) so rather than re-iterate everything here, I'll just suggest you look over there. Ignore the early threads that suggest you need a strap to reassemble the inner cartridge.

When you've read that and familiarized yourself with the parts you'll find hit up Glenn or myself (and others I may have forgotten) and we can answer more specific questions.

[DaddyTJ]

I saw this Stillwell Suspension video on the Beta forks. Very good video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0hj84b ... _WZXGbVfXA

Might need to copy and paste into the browser.

[GMP]

Pretty good video for an overall look at the parts, but he didn't show you the fun part of closing the cartridge. Being you likely don't have a nice vice like that, I can't stress enough being very careful how you hold things. Think it out. Parts are expensive and not on every corner. This is important because you will have to apply significant force to compress the ICS spring in the compression assy somewhat and engage the cartridge threads. I have a done this many times and use a slightly different method for holding and sealing the cartridge. Get a seal driver(which you will eventually need anyway) attach it around the top of the cartridge under the lip, and clamp in in your vise so it can not be forced loose. The cartridge will be a loose fit that can be turned but not fall through. Lightly grease the upper edge of the driver or you can cut a large plastic washer from a milk jug. Put your cap wrench on the cartridge, and use this to turn the cartridge within the improvised holder while simply forcing the compression unit straight down with the cap tool. It is much easier than trying to turn your wrist enough to engage the threads under the force of the spring. I do this with KYBs as well but it's more useful with the Zokes which have a much stiffer install due to the preload on the spring.

[Phatpat]

Phatpaht, I hope you kept the receipt for the tool to set the oil level - it is done by volume

The inner chamber volume is 210cc. The studs on the factory team are said to use 380cc in the outer leg, but mere mortals usually run 300-310cc.

There have been numerous threads on the subject over on the gasgasrider.org site (brought to you by the same great folks that run this one) so rather than re-iterate everything here, I'll just suggest you look over there. Ignore the early threads that suggest you need a strap to reassemble the inner cartridge.

When you've read that and familiarized yourself with the parts you'll find hit up Glenn or myself (and others I may have forgotten) and we can answer more specific questions.

No worries, I've had it a while for my old bikes. Ok thanks, will give it a read and thanks for offering some help and answers!

I sort of like the stiffness of the forks as they are now, gives me a lot of stability and the ability to ride quite agressively over rough terrain, a lot more than with any of my previous KTM's. However I'm open to experimenting and finding out what the forks have to offer as they do feel a little stiff over the very rocky but still relatively fast parts.

Pretty good video for an overall look at the parts, but he didn't show you the fun part of closing the cartridge. Being you likely don't have a nice vice like that, I can't stress enough being very careful how you hold things. Think it out. Parts are expensive and not on every corner. This is important because you will have to apply significant force to compress the ICS spring in the compression assy somewhat and engage the cartridge threads. I have a done this many times and use a slightly different method for holding and sealing the cartridge. Get a seal driver(which you will eventually need anyway) attach it around the top of the cartridge under the lip, and clamp in in your vise so it can not be forced loose. The cartridge will be a loose fit that can be turned but not fall through. Lightly grease the upper edge of the driver or you can cut a large plastic washer from a milk jug. Put your cap wrench on the cartridge, and use this to turn the cartridge within the improvised holder while simply forcing the compression unit straight down with the cap tool. It is much easier than trying to turn your wrist enough to engage the threads under the force of the spring. I do this with KYBs as well but it's more useful with the Zokes which have a much stiffer install due to the preload on the spring.

I'm trying to visualise what you're trying to explain and I think I might get the idea. But it sounds like I'll be having to use one hand to still push up the cartridge from underneath to compress the spring and get the threads to engage? Thanks for a thorough explaination/guide!

[GMP]

No, not at all. The cartridge is fit loose in a seal driver clamped in a vise. It can rotate freely but you can put a lot of downward force on it. You compress the spring with one hand and hold it, and rotate the cartridge with the wrench with the other. Sometimes you can't get the threads started with the limited arc of your hand under the pressure of the spring. Read the manual and other available threads first for a complete understanding on what your doing and the bleed procedure before you start.

In any case you have to hold the cartridge body securely without damaging it. A conventional cartridge holder of the correct size is the only other option, but its more difficult.

I have a set going together tomorrow. I will take a few pics, and if my son is around an iPhone video.

[Phatpat]

No, not at all. The cartridge is fit loose in a seal driver clamped in a vise. It can rotate freely but you can put a lot of downward force on it. You compress the spring with one hand and hold it, and rotate the cartridge with the wrench with the other. Sometimes you can't get the threads started with the limited arc of your hand under the pressure of the spring. Read the manual and other available threads first for a complete understanding on what your doing and the bleed procedure before you start.

In any case you have to hold the cartridge body securely without damaging it. A conventional cartridge holder of the correct size is the only other option, but its more difficult.

I have a set going together tomorrow. I will take a few pics, and if my son is around an iPhone video.

Sorry, was a bit confused there for a moment. I think I might get it now. Yeah I've got the manual, will read it first, already have done a bit. Photos and a video would be much appreciated! Thanks again!

[dirtbird]

...
The inner chamber volume is 210cc. The studs on the factory team are said to use 380cc in the outer leg, but mere mortals usually run 300-310cc.
....

I pour in 220-230ml and after some bleeding I use the syringe tool set@14cm (this spec is also given in the manual IIRC) to make sure that I have the same amount of oil in both chambers.

Basically just double checking.....

Outer chamber is where the real tuning happens
Phatpat for your weight, don't go more than 330ml and good idea is to start with 300 as Steve suggests.

By the way, what oil are you planning to use?
It matters for the inner chamber....

[Phatpat]

...
The inner chamber volume is 210cc. The studs on the factory team are said to use 380cc in the outer leg, but mere mortals usually run 300-310cc.
....

I pour in 220-230ml and after some bleeding I use the syringe tool set@14cm (this spec is also given in the manual IIRC) to make sure that I have the same amount of oil in both chambers.

Basically just double checking.....

Outer chamber is where the real tuning happens
Phatpat for your weight, don't go more than 330ml and good idea is to start with 300 as Steve suggests.

By the way, what oil are you planning to use?
It matters for the inner chamber....

For my weight? Where did you find that info? Haha!

I haven't got that far so no ideas on oil, won't be doing this I think within the next two weeks as I'm going to be quite busy with work for a while now. However if you have any recommendations on oil?

[dirtbird]

..seen your mx video, looked light

Just let us know what brands you can source and then we can advise.
You are looking for SAE 7.5W (in general) and with an actual viscosity between 23 to 26 cSt.