Rear brake free play

[GMP]

IMO it's supposed to be that way to avoid dragging and roasting the brakes. Just like a Jap bike or GG with a slotted clevis, by design. KTMs have no play but squeak and squalk all day through the woods. I have no issues racing with mine and I'm a tail dragger as well. At least they use a nice steel bushing in the pedal so it doesn't wear too fast.

I'm actually ok, with the lack of slop...I just need to get the pedal down further for my liking. anyone sell a brake pedal tip that is not as tall?

Remove the clevis and cut a few mm off the rod. This allows a lower pedal adjustment before the rod hits the pedal. Did this to GGs for years to get the pedal right.

[katoom400]

IMO it's supposed to be that way to avoid dragging and roasting the brakes. Just like a Jap bike or GG with a slotted clevis, by design. KTMs have no play but squeak and squalk all day through the woods. I have no issues racing with mine and I'm a tail dragger as well. At least they use a nice steel bushing in the pedal so it doesn't wear too fast.

I'm actually ok, with the lack of slop...I just need to get the pedal down further for my liking. anyone sell a brake pedal tip that is not as tall?

Remove the clevis and cut a few mm off the rod. This allows a lower pedal adjustment before the rod hits the pedal. Did this to GGs for years to get the pedal right.

I actually saw an old post of yours about this on the GG forums...problem is the rod and lock nut are already bottomed...the only way to get more travel would be to ditch the lock nut, or machine a bit off the clevis.

I'm getting ready for the Hancock dual sport this week, so I may just throw the OEM "sloppy" clevis back on and deal with this when I get back.

interestingly, with the stock clevis adjusted pretty far down for my liking, I really had to press hard to get the brake to lock up...(like I was at the very end of the lever travel) which I was used to and worked pretty well for me once the pads heated up (EBC red's) I noticed with the new clevis and pedal much higher I was able to lock up the wheel with very little effort compared to my old setup, this may be something I'll just have to get used to...

I know my problem will be dragging it too much! I like the idea of having the pedal higher since it works better for someone who stands most of the time and should really help on downhills, not to mention I'm getting into some cross training stuff and I'm practicing my 12:00 wheelies and trying to learn covering the rear brake better....

It's interesting to see how the pros setup their rear brake levers: Jarvis and most of the top guys with trials backgrounds like the lever level with the pegs, then you have guys Like Mike Lafferty who likes it soo low that he actually mounts the pedal tip underneath the lever...Although he admits he is a sit down rider much of the time and this setup isn't the best for steep downhills.

In any event, I know I should stand more, but my lower back is so shot these days I find myself sitting once my back starts hurting..

[GMP]

OK so the aluminum clevis is thicker thats the issue. I've done several other things over the years to fix worn pedals including make up a KTM style setup with a heim joint and an angle bracket to replace the clevis. Worked but I liked a little play better. Guess I'm just used to keeping my foot over the pedal and tucked in. I also ran pivot pegs for years that made braking(and shifting) in any position much better but maintenance and wear was a PIA. My pedal is level but the play is taken up by my resting boot, no trouble locking rear. What I find racing all the time and seeing these real fast guys is that this textbook stand up trials technique goes out the window when things get tight and or speed picks up. Its sit down/brake pivot turn much of the time. Same reason tall bars don't work. I don't stand as much as squat and stay light. For your back maybe examine how you train? I tell Kyle, train like a racer not a body builder with all the heavy back aggravating stuff. Getting away from all that and into body weight/TRX stuff really helped me.

[GMP]

FYI, just restored mine to a like new feel of just a little play with a spare GG clevis and pin I had laying around. All the wear was in the pin and clevis holes, the pedal bushing was virtually new. So, stock parts are fine as are any similar Jap bike parts for the same brakes, and with the steel clevis you can adjust the pedal.

[Michael]

Anybody in Australia managed to get a fasstco brake clevis ??

I can only get JAP ones. Fasstco won't send Beta onesto Australia, yet you cant buy them here !!

[Johnno]

My solution was a bit radical.

I turned the OEM clutch master cylinder and lever into the rear brake and fitted a Clake SLR ( stand alone right hand rear brake actually SARHRB ) as the clutch.

It eliminated all the free play in the rear brake.

Oh, and I removed the rear brake pedal. Further reducing free play.

[katoom400]

My solution was a bit radical.

I turned the OEM clutch master cylinder and lever into the rear brake and fitted a Clake SLR ( stand alone right hand rear brake actually SARHRB ) as the clutch.

It eliminated all the free play in the rear brake.

Oh, and I removed the rear brake pedal. Further reducing free play.

That's just "Nucking Futs!"

[Michael]

My solution was a bit radical.

I turned the OEM clutch master cylinder and lever into the rear brake and fitted a Clake SLR ( stand alone right hand rear brake actually SARHRB ) as the clutch.

It eliminated all the free play in the rear brake.

Oh, and I removed the rear brake pedal. Further reducing free play.

Ha ha living up to your signature, ,,nah definitely not going down that track.

[serialize]

So got my second hand 250rr race.
One of the first things I noticed was the flimsy brake.
Nothing, nothing, nothing, LOCKED! LoL

One of my friends already researched allot and showed me the fast clevis .
But at $50US for the clevis and $37US to ship it it's something like $130CAD and thats allot.

Dug through my spare hardware. Found a bolt with a clear shaft. Was a tad big for the brake lever bore so I grinded it down to fit the brake lever bore. Then bored out the Oem clevis to fit it also. Drilled the whole for the cotter pin and good to go.

Will post up and give an update on how well it works.
Also needed a lower brake position so stretched the spring so it doesn't float the lever up (but if need to go back up in lever height this spring probably won't work anymore).

https://s4.postimg.org/cmvu44lct/IMG_3107.jpg

[little_wing]

my only suggestion is to as your buddy that's rich to borrow his sawall with a metal blade and take the end of the bolt off.... the part with the treads. and then put the bolt in the other way so the cotter pin is on the inside of the bike for a cleaner look.