Beta Riders Club Discussion Forum

I'm about to buy the brp under bar mount for scotts stabilizer.they say you can't use the cycra crm so what guard/mount to use to get for maximum room

Cycra ProBend guards paired with their T2 clamps and threaded inserts work great for me on my 2016. I even have room for a Clake SLR LHRB. Pretty sure that the newer model bikes are still using the same controls and Nekken bars.

I initially purchased and installed the BRP handguard mounts along with the BRP Scotts SUB mount, but regretted it afterwards. The point where the handguards attached to the BRP handguard mount was right where my front brake line passed by and there was no way to conveniently reroute it. So the protective tubing covering the brake line rubbed through during the course of one riding season. I replaced the BRP mounts with Cycra's T2 clamps and have had no issues in several hundred hours riding since then.

wwguy wrote:Cycra ProBend guards paired with their T2 clamps and threaded inserts work great for me on my 2016. I even have room for a Clake SLR LHRB. Pretty sure that the newer model bikes are still using the same controls and Nekken bars.

I initially purchased and installed the BRP handguard mounts along with the BRP Scotts SUB mount, but regretted it afterwards. The point where the handguards attached to the BRP handguard mount was right where my front brake line passed by and there was no way to conveniently reroute it. So the protective tubing covering the brake line rubbed through during the course of one riding season. I replaced the BRP mounts with Cycra's T2 clamps and have had no issues in several hundred hours riding since then.

Thanks for the help, my 250 is a 2015 that I bought used. .i don't have the ubm yet.it came with the brp handguards that mount to the handlebar.i hate them with a passion, you can't adjust em so you can't adjust em for clearance for brake lines and I have always cut my bars down but can't with the brp mount feels like I'm ridding a long horn steer.

Gee, well having clicked on this out of interest as my handguards don't clear the huge clutch line, I'm now propelled down the Clarke brake idea which looks better than other options. But then they have options. Not to derail the thread, how do you find it and did you consider you would fit it to next bike?

First off Dave, it's Clake not Clarke - just google Clake SLR and you should find quite a bit of info.

F5 Dave wrote:Gee, well having clicked on this out of interest as my handguards don't clear the huge clutch line...

The Cycra T2 handguard clamp I mentioned above leaves plenty of room for the clutch line. When I added the Clake SLR (not shown in this pic) I used a slightly longer bolt and put a short spacer between the T2 mount and the Cycra handguard to allow additional room for the SLR.

F5 Dave wrote:... I'm now propelled down the Clarke brake idea which looks better than other options. But then they have options. Not to derail the thread, how do you find it and did you consider you would fit it to next bike?

I knew that I wanted a LHRB system with several key criteria:
1) Hydraulic actuation via a dedicated master cylinder for full wheel-lock/stopping power with one or two fingers.
2) Capability to retain use of foot pedal with the same hydraulic circuit (for when my left hand is otherwise occupied.)
3) Standalone brake operation. I.e. not integrated with clutch operation like the Clake One and Clake Two solutions.
4) Ergonomics had to integrate well with the clutch lever for simultaneous and/or back-and-forth operation of both controls on the trail.

I looked at the LHRB solutions offered by Clake, Ox-Brake, and Rekluse. The Clake SLR was the only one that ticked all of the boxes for me. I just finished my second season riding with it on my Beta and don't know how I ever got along without it before. Brake modulation between front and rear is so much easier with the tactile feedback of operating both similarly. Foot dabs, negotiating tight steep switchbacks in the trail, riding technical terrain, and just moving around on the bike in general are all easier with the LHRB. I've got another bike without one and I miss the LHRB every time I ride it. I'll definitely be moving it to my next trail bike.

Thanks for impressions. Talking of rabbit hole then as you say there is the clake 2 and the prolever. Never seen this before somehow. Reading reading.

wwguy wrote:

F5 Dave wrote:Gee, well having clicked on this out of interest as my handguards don't clear the huge clutch line...

The Cycra T2 handguard clamp I mentioned above leaves plenty of room for the clutch line. When I added the Clake SLR (not shown in this pic) I used a slightly longer bolt and put a short spacer between the T2 mount and the Cycra handguard to allow additional room for the SLR.

F5 Dave wrote:... I'm now propelled down the Clarke brake idea which looks better than other options. But then they have options. Not to derail the thread, how do you find it and did you consider you would fit it to next bike?

I knew that I wanted a LHRB system with several key criteria:
1) Hydraulic actuation via a dedicated master cylinder for full wheel-lock/stopping power with one or two fingers.
2) Capability to retain use of foot pedal with the same hydraulic circuit (for when my left hand is otherwise occupied.)
3) Standalone brake operation. I.e. not integrated with clutch operation like the Clake One and Clake Two solutions.
4) Ergonomics had to integrate well with the clutch lever for simultaneous and/or back-and-forth operation of both controls on the trail.

I looked at the LHRB solutions offered by Clake, Ox-Brake, and Rekluse. The Clake SLR was the only one that ticked all of the boxes for me. I just finished my second season riding with it on my Beta and don't know how I ever got along without it before. Brake modulation between front and rear is so much easier with the tactile feedback of operating both similarly. Foot dabs, negotiating tight steep switchbacks in the trail, riding technical terrain, and just moving around on the bike in general are all easier with the LHRB. I've got another bike without one and I miss the LHRB every time I ride it. I'll definitely be moving it to my next trail bike.

Is there room to cut your bars down