300RR has landed

[flybars]

We were told the 2014 two strokes would have a site window on he clutch cover for checking oil. Nope. At least not on mine. There is an oil level hole with a bolt in it.

My '14 300rr has the same oil check bolt.

[Enmerdeur]

We were told the 2014 two strokes would have a site window on he clutch cover for checking oil. Nope. At least not on mine. There is an oil level hole with a bolt in it.

My '14 300rr has the same oil check bolt.

So I checked the parts fiche between 2013 and 2014 and I guess that level hole with bolt is new. When I read about the change I thought they were talking about a sight window similar to what some 4 strokes have. I never use those oil check holes anyway.

[Hubert Carpet]

The oil level bolt was new for 2014, I have never heard anyone mention a sight glass. The bolt was only on engines produced after the factory re-opened after the summer shutdown for August. My 2014 is one of the first production run built in July and has no oil level bolt either. I have all the other new features and haven't missed it yet.

[GMP]

No need on a 2stroke anyway. 850cc and go. If its like the KTM check bolts with the fine thread best to leave it alone anyway as they used to strip the cover threads very easy.

[Enmerdeur]

Yeah I never used it on my KTMs. 850 ml and I am done. I bought a used 380 once and the PO had stripped the level check. JB Weld was all that was needed

Have no idea where I got the thought it would be a sight glass. Getting old and senile

[Hubert Carpet]

I have never successfully read the oil level in a sight glass out on the trail. It is either fogged by an oil mist or you have to get down so far to read it that the bike is likely to end up on top of you with the hottest bits near exposed skin.

I don't anyone who carries engine oil on the trail so what difference would knowing that you need oil make if you are miles away from the nearest tarmac road, let alone a petrol/gas station?

[Enmerdeur]

On my four stroke I only use the sight glass when I change the oil and to quickly check the oil level before a ride.

[Enmerdeur]

OK been spending some garage time with the 300.

First off get rid of the boat anchor of a battery and replace with a TurnTech



Weight savings: 2lbs

So on all my bikes, I always route two of the four carb vents up high so as not to stall the bike on those long, deep water crossings. I also put filters on the vent lines to keep the dust out of the carb





And since a normal ride can start at 6,000' and go to 10,000' + I put an air screw that can be adjusted with my fingers.



Bye Bye horn and taillight (I may plate this bike someday but not now).





Compression test blew 130. My stock KTM blew 160, modified 180. Will have to see how this works out



Bye, bye funky chain guard



Zip tie the exhaust joint to prevent unsightly spooge.



Bye, bye steering stop nuts



Total weight savings so far - 3lbs 4 oz.

[GMP]

Haven't checked compression yet, will soon. Maybe the bleed hole is more aggressive, just a thought. Also may contribute to the better rev out. Pretty satisfied with the stock power and spread so no sweating the numbers.

I stripped mine down to full HS race mode, just left the headlight connector. Lots of wire on the floor. FYI, from the schematic this bike appears to have a full floating stator as delivered. The smallish rectifier/regulator is just used for battery charging and the lights run on the AC side. I see a very easy higher output full DC conversion just by replacing the rect/reg with a larger unit.

[Hubert Carpet]

Went for a Shorai battery on mine, it was on my KTM as part of trying to make the starter motor work.

That's a nice neat job with the carb breather pipes. Reminds me that I still need to do that now that winter rains are on the way and the rivers are up.

I have relocated the horn into the light shell as it was asking to be pushed into the radiator, it's a legal requirement in the UK for road registration and a fine if you don't have one working. I have some rad braces on order so I may find a place to put it back and leave me room to mount my LED winter lights where the indicators would go on the light. I used to have these mounted on the KTM indicator bar but the Beta top yoke has a curve to it where the KTM one is flatter.

Do any of you guys run winter lights and how do you mount them? I have had the Vision-X Solstice units for 3 or 4 years now and they are bullet-proof. It's dark by 4 pm at the end of the year and you don't want to waste riding time!