250rr how to soften clutch

[betajuice]

Remember there is no free lunch with these levers. Reduced pull effort = Reduded master cyl travel = potential clutch drag

there is actually free lunch with the clake one light clutch already mentioned. i don't understand how they do it... they explained it to me but my eyes just glaze over when engineers talk.

i was getting a lot of arm pump and looked at this setup but then went a step further and got their "clake two" which is the easy pull clutch combined with a hand operated rear brake. http://www.clake.com.au/clake-two-dual-standard-control/

i preferred this to the rekluse as i don't feel i am cheating and can still develop my clutch skills but without killing my arms.

out of interest, i took it off my ktm a month ago in preparation to put on the new RR300... delivery was delayed so had to ride without it for a month and developed carpal tunnel syndrome in just one month of hauling on the heavy stock clutch again. it's a bitch getting old.

if it's any help, i researched arm pump recently and did a vid on the most common solutions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uA9RKod5Ltc

[GMP]

Remember there is no free lunch with these levers. Reduced pull effort = Reduded master cyl travel = potential clutch drag

there is actually free lunch with the clake one light clutch already mentioned. i don't understand how they do it... they explained it to me but my eyes just glaze over when engineers talk.

i was getting a lot of arm pump and looked at this setup but then went a step further and got their "clake two" which is the easy pull clutch combined with a hand operated rear brake. http://www.clake.com.au/clake-two-dual-standard-control/

i preferred this to the rekluse as i don't feel i am cheating and can still develop my clutch skills but without killing my arms.

out of interest, i took it off my ktm a month ago in preparation to put on the new RR300... delivery was delayed so had to ride without it for a month and developed carpal tunnel syndrome in just one month of hauling on the heavy stock clutch again. it's a bitch getting old.

if it's any help, i researched arm pump recently and did a vid on the most common solutions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uA9RKod5Ltc

I don't care who makes the lever, there is no way you are getting significant reduction in pull effort without reduction in travel. Basic physics. Now, if the clutch system can tolerate that without drag is another matter. The other thing they may do is use a non-linear type of pivot, so the effort varies with position. This would mean that one part of the travel of the lever would actually be harder than the other if slave travel is to remain the same. Glad you like it and it works for you but no magic here.

[hawaiidirtrider]

Hey Guys,

So i have a Beta 250rr 2014, i am having great fun, had the bike for about 6 months now, novice/inter rider, but I battle with arm pump, so what are my options, how can i soften the lever pull a little? I do everything i can for fitness and strengthen and hydration etc. BTW if anyones wants to strengthen their grip u need therapy putty from the physio, i smashed my hand against a tree, yep, i now know how important barkbusters are now!

Also the small spring on the pin in the clutch lever is always popping and bending and staying out unless i realise and take the cover off and try and push it back, is there a better lever than stock ones?

Rekluse - Am not sure if i want this but appreciate the benefits
Maguara - Advice?
Change levers -
Any other suggestions

And as much as i love the 250 is there much difference 250 and the 300?
many thanks

Abe

That vid from betajuice is pretty decent..arm pump one.. idk.. the Beta doesn't have especially hard pulling clutch at all to me..to me it feels good. It's actually you .. holding on too hard.. probably not breathing and being that calm.. and a matter of building up your arm strength.. riding smoothly and not forcing the bike by manhandling with your arms.. just being too tense.. It can be a bunch of things all together too.. as far as drinks.. some cytomax type drink might help a little too.. then there's ergo setups.. seat..bars.. pegs.. generally how you are on the bike and riding.. there's a lot of elements..and it could be just a couple or all of it.. I just did a 7 hr race with the stock clutch ..setup.. and I never had arm pump at all. I had the start of some cramping by my right leg a little.. but not my clutch .. and it was a pretty hard race...and I'm not young..I had to concentrate on being calm though and breathing..riding smooth..etc.. I have this book.. it's been out a long time and it covers alot of elements to riding..it's from the motorbooks workshop line of books.. this one is from eric gorr.. I'd suggest getting it. It will help in a lot of stuff.. including setup of your bike.. I think it's one of the essential books that are an excellent reference. It's called "Motocross and Offroad Performance Handbook". I've had it for years and still manage to see things that help... also the other route is to get some how to ride vids.. skills 1,2 and 3 .. the shane watts dirtwise vids are good.. and there are others.. and usually one can get some used ones cheaper these days..; but really I think just riding alot is the best.. just work through it.. but check out some of what's been mentioned.. try going to the library.. you might be able to get some of this for free there too..

..as far as the 250 and 300 .. there's a difference but not a whole lot.. 250 rr is an awesome bike.. just slightly lest torque than a 300 rr but a 250rr lugs and has torque and the motor is awesome.. and the whole bike is awesome..It sure is a whole lot easier riding that bike than most any other I can think of.. you could try riding a way harder bike to ride.. say an mx bike.. then go back to the 250rr.. then you'll see a huge difference..you might not have arm pump anymore training on other bikes..you'll go back to your beta and go "AAaaaaaahhh"

[BassMan]

Another way to reduce clutch use is the change the power band. I have a 13. 250 so have had a lot of time to experiment. I currently run the power valve flush and use the gnarly pipe and the q4 silencer. With that set up you rarely need the clutch at all. All smooth low end that is ultra responsive with zero hit. Easy spins up from 2nd or 3rd. It is now the bike I have always been searching after. 2t feel and balance, with quick off idle response, no hit, smooth 250 4t acceleration, with no engine braking. Was riding yesterday and had several 4t guys marvel at it. They all love the clutch and they run rekluse clutches and after riding mine understand while I left the auto clutch family.

[GMP]

I think the clutch is fine. If you have hand/arm issues beyond the norm of gripping too hard consider Flexxbars and grips such as the ProTaper Rally or Pillow Top. Also, try "pre-pumping" you arms before a ride. I use my tiedowns TRX style, lean back and do wrist curls against your body weight, about 20 min prior to a start. This really works.

[celler]

I have a Rekluse exp pro that I set up for hard engagement. Part of this setup uses springs that a lot stiffer than stock so the lever pull is hard by todays standards. I also use my clutch all the time. The rekluse is more of an anti stall device for me. I put a Midwest engineering lever and it reduced the clutch pull a lot an I still have good modulation and complete disengagement.

[betajuice]

I don't care who makes the lever, there is no way you are getting significant reduction in pull effort without reduction in travel. Basic physics....

it all sounds like hocus pocus but it's not the lever or just the pivot but in their words a ... "balancing system that stores the energy from the lever release and uses this to balance out the energy required to pull the clutch lever in". on the kato it roughly halved the force needed and no extra distance involved. it's kind of big and ugly on the bars and it has cams and springs and god knows what in there.

[GMP]

OK so its basically what I said then a type of non-linear system. Other "easy pull" levers and the old "easy clutch" device for cable clutches just changed the ratio, as do master/slave swaps. From your description the no free lunch comment might still apply to a point, doesn't sound cheap or maintanence free. I'll have to check it out.

Something else to investigate is the clutch itself. It was said at one time you can remove the anti-judder setup and install another set of plates. This would increase friction area and should allow lighter springs, if you could source them. I have not tried this its just a thought. This "extra plates/light springs" is a GasGas clutch design philosophy and why their clutches are so light.

[GMP]

Another way to reduce clutch use is the change the power band. I have a 13. 250 so have had a lot of time to experiment. I currently run the power valve flush and use the gnarly pipe and the q4 silencer. With that set up you rarely need the clutch at all. All smooth low end that is ultra responsive with zero hit. Easy spins up from 2nd or 3rd. It is now the bike I have always been searching after. 2t feel and balance, with quick off idle response, no hit, smooth 250 4t acceleration, with no engine braking. Was riding yesterday and had several 4t guys marvel at it. They all love the clutch and they run rekluse clutches and after riding mine understand while I left the auto clutch family.

Sounds like a 300. Its interesting what you get used to. Spent some time on a 250 Husky Sunday and there is a big difference in the low to mid power from my Beta 300. Playing around with obstacles like hopping logs its evident and after getting off the 250 and back on the 300 you have to recalibrate or you can get into trouble. This is all before the PV opens.

[twowheels]

OK so its basically what I said then a type of non-linear system. Other "easy pull" levers and the old "easy clutch" device for cable clutches just changed the ratio, as do master/slave swaps. From your description the no free lunch comment might still apply to a point, doesn't sound cheap or maintanence free. I'll have to check it out.

Something else to investigate is the clutch itself. It was said at one time you can remove the anti-judder setup and install another set of plates. This would increase friction area and should allow lighter springs, if you could source them. I have not tried this its just a thought. This "extra plates/light springs" is a GasGas clutch design philosophy and why their clutches are so light.

Rekluse is now selling a manual clutch with something on the order of 12 plates ... and super light pull at the lever.