Midwest Mountain Clutch Lever

[Hyde]

I'm a new convert to Beta but still have KTM's and Husbergs in the shop with the DDS clutch that I've come to really like, the Beta clutch works great but the pull is massive compared to the new DDS stuff, with the MM leaver you will get a pull that is as good or lighter than the new KTM's.

Another benefit is that it's short, the top fitting on the clutch line is kind of long and limits adjustment if you run a hand guard top clamp style mount.

http://www.midwestme.com

Well worth the $$

[Hubert Carpet]

I have one of these levers on my '14 300RR and find it very good. I don't think that the standard clutch pull is too bad, it's the same as I experienced on the 2011 250 EXC KTM I had before. The main reason I went for the MM lever was that the standard Brembo lever is way too long and fouls my EE hand guards, the same as the KTM one did.

Having said that, the feel is excellent with the MM lever and allows up to 3 fingers (for me) comfortably. I found the setup a fit a little time consuming to get the right balance between lever start position set by the back adjuster and being able to get sufficient throw on the lever to get full clutch disengagement to find neutral easily and start in gear.

I recommend using threadlock on the back adjuster to stop it loosening off, winding out and causing clutch slip.

[GMP]

I'll a bit skeptical as there is no free lunch. If your changing the leverage ratio in the pivot design to reduce pull force you must give up master cyl. travel, which means more likely the clutch will drag. The same is true for swapping master cyl sizes to acheive the same thing only thats a hydraulic ratio change not mechanical. Perhaps the Beta has enough overtravel to get away with this and give a good result, I just don't know. If your truely satisfied measure(accurately) the master cyl travel with the new lever, I'd be interested to see if the clutch drags on my bike with the stock lever adjusted or held to an equivalent position. A dragging clutch sucks for in gear dead engine starts.

[Enmerdeur]

So I just read the Cycle News test on the 300 and they said its clutch is buttery smooth and easy to pull. In fact they said they snapped off all but a third of the clutch lever in a fall and they could still easily operate the clutch. So whats the deal. Is the clutch that difficult?

[GMP]

Its stiffer than a GG clutch but what isn't? No big deal to me, never think about it. Plus on a 300 your not on the clutch as much anyway. Commute on a dry clutch Ducati and it puts all in perspective.

[Mxdave]

I'm guessing this is the Ktm model that is hooked up? Also does it work okay with the standard lights switch?

[Mxdave]

Got my Midwest lever today, after having the DDS I'm impressed with this lever.

[Noppy]

Found that the MM drags on my 498 in the most extreme position. What could I do to prevent it?

Neutral is very hard to find and the dragging is there intermittently so every two seconds the driveline is activated and I move forward a little bit. Giving it a good full throtlle and then the dragging stops for 5 seconds but then starts again.

What could I do?

[johnm28]

Found that the MM drags on my 498 in the most extreme position. What could I do to prevent it?

Neutral is very hard to find and the dragging is there intermittently so every two seconds the driveline is activated and I move forward a little bit. Giving it a good full throtlle and then the dragging stops for 5 seconds but then starts again.

What could I do?

I just bought one for my 400 RS and was having same issue. I realized that I had the larger Alan screw adjusted out to much. I had the lever to close to the bars. I don't like to normally reach all the way out so I turned that screw out but by doing that I did it too much thus putting pressure on the clutch. So I turned the screw in which make lever go away from bars and was much better. Loctite both hex and nut as well so its doesn't back out on accident. Seemed to release the pressure and is still easy to reach and pull. I also have the smaller alan screw for engagement right at about flush with the cam thingy its in. Don't know if you tried that or not but seemed to help for me..

[betajuice]

i liked it on the RR300, did a review here if anyone is thinking of fitting the lever: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U_wxlOLAm3g

because it works on leverage you do have to pull the lever all the way into the bars to disengage the clutch fully. i found it reduced the pull by about a third in the initial part of the travel, but needed almost the same pull to full disengage it though.

good value for the money. but because my old fingers are really struggling i opted for the clake one light clutch. up to 80% less pull required and it doesn't rely on leverage but it is 2.5 times more expensive. http://www.clake.com.au/onelightclutch/