2016 300rr Quality

[Kris]

After lots of research I pulled trigger on new 300rr 3 weeks ago. I have had it out twice and after long time KTM 4t rider I definitely got my fix on riding 2 stroke again and very much like the power and handling. However, during and after first ride I noticed the oil leak on side case from the PV valve and already new this was a reported issue so knew it was a straight forward fix and didnt stress. Next ride yesterday I noted the gas leaking out of overflow tube when bike is leaned slightly more than on kick stand, and said 'oh well floats are next to adjust.' So proceeded with ride and after 2-3 miles of aggressive up/down single track bike died going up hill at about half throttle and sucked it up and pushed rest of way up top of hill. After lots of attempts to get bike started no luck, but fortunately not too far from truck and with help of fellow rider got back to truck. At truck proceeded to pull carburetor off and go after the float adjustment, which was found to be a little high. However during float adjustment noted some dirt in float bowl and sighed. Blew out the the carb and reassembled and bike started right up and I checked for any gas overflow, which looked to be corrected. Took for another 2 mile loop ride and noted another throttle stumble or just no power (like gas starved) going down hill and said oh crud and high tailed back to truck again where with bike running I tilted to left to double check for gas overflow and bike died. Loaded bike in truck and said this sucks as this shouldnt happen with new high end bike. ALso during parking lot repair many fellow riders asked whats up with new Beta and I tried to keep up beat that it has a few bugs to be worked out.

I'm pretty sure its most likely the dirt/grit in the carb as the problem I need to address next, but how the heck did grit get into new carb in first place? I'll pull tank flush and check/clean carb again and install in-line filter and hope this gets me down the trail and back.

I took time to write as to help improve the experience of next buyer of new 300rr and I'm sure the source of solution is somewhere between parts suppliers, Beta and dealership. I've notified my dealership and will work through the issues. Polka dot 49er ride this weekend and I'll pull the KTM out for it, and fix the Beta later.

[katoom400]

I've probably had 15 new bikes (mostly KTM's) in the last 20 yrs, of which many need attention right out of the box (esp husaberg).

As for my 2014 300RR, my floats needed adjustment (as did most of my ktm 2t's) and thats about it in the past 1,500 miles. I'm sure you'll get it sorted and have a VERY reliable ride...it's just a bit frustrating to deal with on a new bike.

I usually buy a new bike every year (sometimes twice a year), and this spring when my friends noticed I was keeping the Beta for another season, they took note...a few are making the switch just based on this observation.

I predict Beta share price will skyrocket come March when I keep her for a third season!!!!....lol

[GMP]

I've had a bunch of bikes too and this kind of stuff is somewhat normal. Plastic tanks can have traces of shards and debri from the molding and finishing process. Flush and add a filter(actually my dealer, twowheels, even did that). Keihin carbs are common with KTM and GG and ALL require at least a float level check. This stuff to me is normal new bike prep like linkage grease, waterproofing wiring, adding guards, etc. I'm at 170 hrs now, at least half of that racing a full harescrambles series the last 21/2 years. Ride/race Almost every week and prep time is minimal, a very easy bike to own and race. It has the original top end and still pulls like a train, and when I change it this winter it will be MUCH cheaper than KTM 4stroke parts. I've had KTMs too, just as much marketing bullshit as real engineering IMO, and their customer service for REAL problems SUCKS from personal experience. That and what they call suspension is why I dumped my KTMs and rode GGs for years until the Beta appeared. I can't swap bikes like I used to every couple years and to be honest the Beta has been good and is still tight, fast, reliable, and is not holding me back.

[Hyde]

Rode my 16' 250rr last Sunday with out an issue, but lowering the floats was on the pre-ride "to do " list.

[mcnut]

I have 176 hours on my '14 250 RR in a little over a year. Best woods bike I've ever ridden! I can't stop riding it!

[Rob578]

My 2015 300 RR did almost the exact same thing.... get the float set right and play with the jetting, this bike seems way more sensitive to jetting than my old Husky WR300.
This may seem obvious but make sure the carb is vertical, if it's tilted off to one side or the other it will cause that running out of fuel feeling.

[Johnny Depp]

Lose the gas tank vent check valve. Done.

If you are in dusty conditions get a carb vent filter.

[Kris]

Yep you guys are good and I'll have to continue to step up my game and prepare list of at least 15-20 items that I need to check off before this bike is all sorted out. I'll report back in couple of weeks or when ever I can get to it.

Let me know if anything else comes to mind that would cause engine cutting out and momentary power loss, as I'll continue with debris in pilot or float needle as cause of problem to address first. Thanks!

[Leon_RR250]

Hi!

I have been out 5 times with mine with the first 3 hours doing the recommended break in. Bike always has worked perfectly. I changed the pilot and main jets (42, 175) for the cooler Finish climate before the first time out and I also found debris in the petrol when I unscrewed the 17 mm cap at the bottom. I have not adjusted the floats yet because I have not seen gas running down although I have seen drops of it in the skid plate. I am getting 28 kms with about 4 litres or a bit less of petrol. I will do it when it is colder and time to lift the needle up one notch.

I would check that nothing is pinched/pressed around the carb and also that the overflow tube from the radiator is not pressed by the skid plate. I did it with my 2013 RR250 when I installed a new skid plate and the symptoms were similar to yours. It would start working again after the engine was cooler but only for a few minutes.

[ricoyam]

I have a 430 4T but I'd like to offer a short list of things I'd recommend owners do.

On all my bikes I retorque all pinch bolts in the front end using anti-seize on any screws going into alloy. I feel using torque wrenches on pinch bolts is vert important. If over tightened, best case is the casting will distort. Worst case is you'll crack the casting.

The first time you have the rear wheel off, pull the chain adjuster screws and put anti-seize on them.
Also when you have the rear wheel off, regrease the linkage.

Check the spark plug and use a little anti-seize on the threads making sure it doesn't get on the electrodes.

Check the air filter is properly oiled. Over time the oil can settle in the filter leaving the top dry and the bottom dripping. Also make sure it's seated properly.

Naturally check the nuts and bolts and the spokes usually loosen for the first ride or two.