2016 300rr Quality

[GMP]

Go over your ignition connections carefully. Seal everything up with RTV or liquid tape. Like most bikes its wired more like a computer not something that operates in the elements. Best to do this as part of new prep while its clean and dry. Done right, it will fire one kick after a wash with water dripping from the wires. If you don't need all the excessive wiring, the race harness (or cutting up the OEM harness) really cleans things up. Regardless I'd wire in a separate kill switch as the cluster is not waterproof.

[BassMan]

Sparkplug cap is not fully snapped on.

[twowheels]

Sparkplug cap is not fully snapped on.

Your dealer should have prepped the bike and fully seated it.

[Kris]

okay back on the bike after going through my to-do list and she performed solid on good 35mi up/down single track ride. I ended up flushing tank adding fuel filter, replacing stock gas cap vent tube with straight hose, rechecked float level (about 7-8mm), reseated spark plug cap, shortened radiator overflow tube, and added bunch or protection guards. Kinda surprised no factory supplied clamps on oil injection connections, which I still need to either steal from vent tubes or tie with wire.

I did go for replacing needle to NECJ and 162 MJ with 38 pilot and 1 3/4 air at 1000ft ride, but found I lost the 1/8-1/4 low end snap or just power that had with stock set up and it was pinging when on the pipe. But would agree that yes it smoothed out power delivery over range and made nice and crisp, but this isnt for me and will go back to either N2ZW or perhaps try leaner N2ZJ as I would like power back. Only reason I messed with needle in first place was to smooth out power delivery (a little) and avoid buying larger tank, but perhaps float adjustment will take care of latter. Thanks for posting lots of helpful info!

[Bandicoot]

okay back on the bike after going through my to-do list and she performed solid on good 35mi up/down single track ride. I ended up flushing tank adding fuel filter, replacing stock gas cap vent tube with straight hose, rechecked float level (about 7-8mm), reseated spark plug cap, shortened radiator overflow tube, and added bunch or protection guards. Kinda surprised no factory supplied clamps on oil injection connections, which I still need to either steal from vent tubes or tie with wire.

I did go for replacing needle to NECJ and 162 MJ with 38 pilot and 1 3/4 air at 1000ft ride, but found I lost the 1/8-1/4 low end snap or just power that had with stock set up and it was pinging when on the pipe. But would agree that yes it smoothed out power delivery over range and made nice and crisp, but this isnt for me and will go back to either N2ZW or perhaps try leaner N2ZJ as I would like power back. Only reason I messed with needle in first place was to smooth out power delivery (a little) and avoid buying larger tank, but perhaps float adjustment will take care of latter. Thanks for posting lots of helpful info!

I would try the NECJ with the 35 PJ and a 165 MJ ... If its a little blubbery off idle try the NEDJ on the 2nd clip instead
What clip was the NECJ needle on ????? 3rd or maybe 4th clip dependant on what your looking for

[GMP]

W diameter (NECW) now that its cooler, and keep the 38 pilot do not go to the 35 if its flat. That drives the off idle fueling. Try to avoid a full clip change with these needles, they seem run best in clip #3, and if a length adjustment is needed the half clip varient does the job. Pinging on the pipe? Could you have lowered the float too much? Go back up on the main.

[Kris]

opps forgot to mention running clip at slot 3 from top. Engine pinging was during about half throttle under load between 3rd - 5th gear moving up hills. Perhaps floats set too low but I did measure from center of carb from base to top of float to best of my abilities. I did look at plug and looked decent with black and brown coloring, and bike has only 75 mi and 3.5 hours on it to date. I'll keep at it and either way will have to go back into carb again.

[Whee]

As others have stated, what you are experiencing seems to be the norm with bikes from small European manufacturers. I had a GasGas before Beta so I know.

On my X-Trainer, I kept thinking I was hearing pinging but it was chain slap on the elaborate chain guide/guard.

I think every recent Beta dribbles gas when new but seems to stop after a while. Maybe the viton tip of the float needle seals better after a while? I also ran the overflow in a loop just under the intake boot & back down so the fuel has to make it up & over that loop. Its still low enough so it will not cause the crankcase to flood. I think I saw the mod on here somewhere. I also tied a knot in the overflow further down so that it acts like a plumbing P-Trap for dirt because there is always a little fuel in the bottom of the knot. The dirt then gets washed out when the overflow drains. That suggestion came from my email communication with the owner of 7602 Racing. I was installing his carb vent filter & was wondering what to do about the overflow. Some say that two stroke carb vents don't need filters but I am not convinced. When we checked, my friends had plenty rubbish in his float bowl & mine had none. I had run the filter since new. Both of our XTs had what looked like brass metal filings in the bottom of the tank. Get a flashlight & have a look. I put an inline filter. I don't trust the in tank mesh screen filter to be reliable long term.

I put clamps on my oil injection connection like this ;

[celler]

Since we are talking quality I have a few observations of my 250 RR compared to the YZ 250's I have ridden for years that are know to be good bikes.
My clutch basket life is now 2 times a YZ basket and I have yet to see an notching. Best stock aluminum basket I have ever seen. KTM use steel which is the best in my opinion. Piston life is also outstanding. Recently I just checked compression and I have had no loss in the last 150 hrs. Overall the bike is staying quite tight. Do not be afraid of buying a Beta because of quality.

[Hammer]

Since we are talking quality I have a few observations of my 250 RR compared to the YZ 250's I have ridden for years that are know to be good bikes.
My clutch basket life is now 2 times a YZ basket and I have yet to see an notching. Best stock aluminum basket I have ever seen. KTM use steel which is the best in my opinion. Piston life is also outstanding. Recently I just checked compression and I have had no loss in the last 150 hrs. Overall the bike is staying quite tight. Do not be afraid of buying a Beta because of quality.

I replace the piston at around 150 hours the compression was only down about 5 from new but make sure you check piston skirt wear. This is more of a reason to change a piston than compression readings in my opinion.