Clake Pro-Lever on '17 300rr

Feedback & Comments on Products Tested

Re: Clake Pro-Lever on '17 300rr

Postby Jebster » Sun Feb 19, 2017 6:53 pm

I've put some quality time with the Pro-Lever and I'm convinced that I'll probably never install a Rekluse on this bike. Which is a first for me in many years.

It absolutely works as advertised. This unit is very high quality and the real deal. It took a little time to get figure out the perfect performance and feel but after some riding with the cams that they included I've settled on a brake cam and a clutch cam that gives me the flexibility I need.

Overall it has been very easy to get used to using it and now I've grown accustomed to relying on it. Here's where it shines the most:

Downhills. Just yesterday we traversed some rather rocky and steep downhills but able to have my feed anchored on both pegs in a balanced way, my hind end hovering over the rear of he seat to push weight towards the back, and using one finger per hand to control the brakes yields a confidence I've not had before. And it's MUCH easier to control the amount of braking on the descent with a finger than with my big, bulky mx boot. Faster, more controlled downhills.

Right-hand corners. I try to stand most of the time when I'm riding but I like to sit hard in the corners and get the inside leg up. Not practical using the rear brake pedal. Very practical using the Clake.

I'm using more front brake. This may sound strange but one thing that has happened without me even thinking about it. I've always used my front brake under some circumstances but I really didn't have the nerve to use it whole-heartedly in turns and the mud. The brake cam I settled on has a slow start but gets aggressive as the lever is pulled toward the bar, so if I need to really get the rear to start braking my clutch is completely disengaged. But I found that when I'm finessing the rear brake (and the clutch is just starting to disengage) at partial lever closings I'm braking more and more with my front brake in more situations. This is weird but the result is I'm learning to stop better, to use the power of the front brake more. I've always known my front brake was there . . . and now I'm using it more. Like I said, weird.

Better control of the rear wheel. Since there is overlap between the clutch and the rear brake, the clutch is actually partially engaged as the brake is first applied (but, of course, fully disengaged when you brake hard). No brake hop. And I think it's playing a role in better traction.

I seldom use the brake pedal, but when I do it works just as well as when it was simply a master-slave system. Now using the rear pedal is a master-slave-master-slave configuration: yes, two masters, two slaves, two cables - and it feels no less solid than before the Clake.

Oh, and I did replace the clutch cable; in fact, I MADE one with the help of another forum member - thanks Luziana Long!

I'm going to post a little video soon that shows how the clutch plates move with the different lever positions.
'17 300rr
Jebster
 
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Re: Clake Pro-Lever on '17 300rr

Postby Johnno » Sun Feb 19, 2017 7:27 pm

The best thing for as far as confidence on big down hills goes is with a left hand rear brake, when you encounter loose surfaces where the front brake is going to land you on your ear, you can look ahead for the spot you can arrest that run away train feeling by clamping both brakes on.

Because until you get there you have such fine control over the rear brake you just keep modulating the lever and not end up in that juggernaut situation. And because your backside is out past the tail light the rear brake works infinitely better than it ever did before.

It's been a huge game changer for me
Loose...
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Re: Clake Pro-Lever on '17 300rr

Postby Jebster » Mon Feb 27, 2017 6:18 pm

A few more shots of my final setup . . . note how the handguards leave plenty of space, also check out the clutch cable I made - surprisingly easy. I used a 45° fitting to route the cable better with the handguards.

Image

Image
'17 300rr
Jebster
 
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Re: Clake Pro-Lever on '17 300rr

Postby Bandicoot » Tue Feb 28, 2017 1:09 am

What handguard setup is that ????
I cant find a setup that is nice or fits the Clake products well

By the look of the pics they are the cleanest Ive seen so far
Darren ..
If your not ridin' ... Your dyin' .. !!!
Keep on Roostin'
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Re: Clake Pro-Lever on '17 300rr

Postby Jebster » Tue Feb 28, 2017 5:31 pm

http://www.reflexracing.com

I noticed they just added another type, BRP Sub stabilizer mounts with or without flex bars.
'17 300rr
Jebster
 
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Location: Northern Kentucky

Re: Clake Pro-Lever on '17 300rr

Postby McKay » Fri Mar 03, 2017 10:19 am

How did you bleed the clutch, I'm on my second one (first one returned due to defect) and it wont bleed. Ive vacuum bled it, left the lever assembly tied up all night, followed his videos. I'm down to trying to back bleed with a syringe from slave up.

What did you do?
McKay
 
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Re: Clake Pro-Lever on '17 300rr

Postby Jebster » Fri Mar 03, 2017 10:56 am

I don't know how much this helps - if you've already had to send one back you are probably pretty frustrated and have tried everything under the sun.

I pretty much just followed his video. Make sure you watch the new videos, better instructions with more details. It is a bit of a task and did take a little while for me, an hour maybe just for the clutch (I am slow and meticulous though). Pay particular attention to getting it bled up to the bleed port to the outside of the master, it's tricky. Then follow the "slow squeeze, fast release" advice to keep any trapped air up in the master and not the clutch line. Keep at it, eventually you'll get there unless fittings aren't tight and you're sucking air in from somewhere. As you make progress tilt the bars around to get different angles and tap the master to dislodge anything trapped, but most of the time orient the master as described in the video.

When I replaced my clutch line I had to bleed the whole system and it was even more work. If you suspect air is in the line or the slave, there is a YouTube video, "How To: Bleed a KTM Hydraulic Clutch - TransWorld Motocross". It works fairly well with the Clake in place. When you think you're done tap the slave at different angles to make sure any air is dislodged to double check, sometimes it'll product a few more tiny bubbles which can make a difference. Had that not worked for me I was ready to hookup the OEM and get the whole system bled - the OEM unit IS easier to bleed - and then remove the master and reattach the Clake making sure to keep air out of the clutch line.

So make sure the slave and line are bled first, then use the Clake video to get the master bled would be my advice. If you have a couple of beers to nurse during the process it might make things easier.

Hope this helps.
'17 300rr
Jebster
 
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Re: Clake Pro-Lever on '17 300rr

Postby McKay » Fri Mar 03, 2017 2:10 pm

Yes, total frustration so far. I don't see his new videos, all I see is his clake 2 and pro lever videos but they don't address the pro lever at all in them. Good idea on the swapping in the OEM lever to get line done. Ill report back. At this rate a couple beers will lead to a case I'm afraid.

Edit, just found new videos.
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Re: Clake Pro-Lever on '17 300rr

Postby Johnno » Fri Mar 03, 2017 3:28 pm

I'd say from experience using the stock master to get the line and slave right first would be the key.

I had big problems when I tried to get the SLR working with a new line.

I ended up taking it to a shop and they struggled with it too. The altered the piston adjustment too which didn't help.

Eventually I sent it back to Owen, I've no idea if he reset it or sent me a new one but I put it on the handlebars, primed it, connected the line, bled the slave twice and presto.
Loose...
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Re: Clake Pro-Lever on '17 300rr

Postby McKay » Fri Mar 03, 2017 3:46 pm

Cool, I cant wait to get it going. I see that removing the slave allows it to move out a little bit more then when installed, that may be where my issue is.
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